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Gemini 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Baldwin
Page Views: 45
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Starting the crux.

  • Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A devious line with thin holds, balancy moves, and a strenuous, iron cross-like move.

    Start up on the smooth face below the small roof, working the small crimps, sidepulls and footholds. The second clip is balancy and a bit thought-provoking. Find a way to get past the roof, rest a bit, and then wonder where the holds went.

    A bit of desperate arete-pinching later, come to a couple of (relatively) larger holds and figure out the next bulge problem. Finally, clip the last bolt and head for the anchors.

    Location 

    The bolted line to the left of the chimney (Barbie Twins) with the yellow triangle of rock. The first two bolts are on and just left of a thin face; the third is above a small roof.

    Protection 

    5 bolts, ring anchors (shared with Barbie Twins to the right).


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    By KipHenrie
    From: Farmington, utah
    Jul 22, 2009
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

    This is a superb climb with very peculiar moves that is unlike other AF climbs. Take your time and you'll figure it out.
    By Christian "crisco" Burrell
    From: PG, Utah
    Aug 29, 2009

    Maybe I was doing it wrong...I don't remember doing an "Iron Cross" move...a bit slippery but great to work on! Once your feet are above the roof, the difficulty eases considerably. (I will admit, I did not redpoint this yet. I worked it for a while and was able to do almost all the moves)

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