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*The Main Amphitheater
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Lord Humongous T 
Plasma Center S 
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Pyrokinesis T 
Rough Around the Edges T 
Speaking In Tongues T 
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There Will Be Blood T 
Walking Far From Home T 

Gemini Dragonfire 

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Trad, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Joel Unema, 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,564
Submitted By: Joel Unema on Feb 7, 2014

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Joel Unema on the FA of Gemini Dragonfire 5.13+, i...

Description 

Flanked by fire and cloaked in the shadow of darkness, Gemini Dragonfire rises on wings of basalt and takes flight through the heart of the waterfall. Moderate climbing leads to a boulder problem over a bulge of the blackest water-worn basalt. Above this bulge, slabby to vertical climbing on small edges, pods, and thin cracks leads up a left-slanting crack. A short step right gains the seam in the heart of the Dragon. Things begin to get thin as the wall becomes steeper. Small and positive edges lead to the trial by Dragonfire: a technical crux revolving around a triangular hole, small footholds, and several small holds in the seam. If you escape unscathed, a positive fingerlock pod marks the end of the crux. Engaging and pumpy climbing leads to a good stance below the roof, where the climb exits left on small crimps and pockets.

Location 

Gemini Dragonfire is in the main amphitheater, right of Pyrokinesis and left of Black and Tan. The two-bolt anchor is shared with Dark and Stormy

Protection 

Gear to a 2 bolt anchor.
Recommended gear list:
Doubles from 00 BD to #.5 Camalot
Single #.75-#2 Camalot
Set of small and medium nuts
Blue Ballnut (protects bottom bulge at 5.11+R)
3 Red Ballnuts
1 Yellow Ballnut


Photos of Gemini Dragonfire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: JJ on Pyrokinesis: Edited to show line of Gemini D...
JJ on Pyrokinesis: Edited to show line of Gemini D...

Comments on Gemini Dragonfire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 7, 2014

Gemini Dragonfire would not have been possible without Carrie Albrecht. I am so grateful for her patience, belays, and encouragement.

On another topic, a grade is hard to assign on a climb like this. The crux is a short vertical boulder problem, preceded by a good rest. I welcome other opinions on the grade, as I feel the boulder problem was difficult, sequential, and height-dependant.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 8, 2014

Awesome Joel!!!!
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jan 19, 2015

Way to go, Joel. You rock!