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Gemini Dragonfire 

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

Type:  Trad, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Joel Unema, 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,696
Submitted By: Joel Unema on Feb 7, 2014

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Joel Unema on the FA of Gemini Dragonfire 5.13+, i...


Gemini Dragonfire climbs through the heart of the waterfall. Moderate climbing leads to a boulder problem over a bulge. Above this bulge, slabby to vertical climbing leads up a left-slanting crack. A short step right gains the seam. Small and positive edges lead to the technical crux Engaging and pumpy climbing leads to a good stance below the roof, where the climb exits left on small crimps and pockets.


Gemini Dragonfire is in the main amphitheater, right of Pyrokinesis and left of Black and Tan. The two-bolt anchor is shared with Dark and Stormy


Gear to a 2 bolt anchor.
Recommended gear list:
Doubles from 00 BD to #.5 Camalot
Single #.75-#2 Camalot
Set of small and medium nuts
Blue Ballnut (protects bottom bulge at 5.11+R)
3 Red Ballnuts
1 Yellow Ballnut

Photos of Gemini Dragonfire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: JJ on Pyrokinesis: Edited to show line of Gemini D...
JJ on Pyrokinesis: Edited to show line of Gemini D...

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By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 7, 2014

Gemini Dragonfire would not have been possible without Carrie Albrecht. I am so grateful for her patience, belays, and encouragement.

On another topic, a grade is hard to assign on a climb like this. The crux is a short vertical boulder problem, preceded by a good rest. I welcome other opinions on the grade, as I feel the boulder problem was difficult, sequential, and height-dependant.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 8, 2014

Awesome Joel!!!!
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jan 19, 2015

Way to go, Joel. You rock!

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