Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Conan's Corridor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boulder Dice T 
Boulderado (aka California Face) S 
Colorado Crack T 
Fool's Gold T 
Gem T 
Green Hornet TR 
Lichanvura Trivirgata T 
Pictures at an Exhibition T 
Spiderman T 
Tapeworm direct?? T,TR 
Tapeworm Traverse T 
True Dice T 
Winter Wine T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Bald, Hugh Burton, and John Long - January 1974
Page Views: 4,347
Submitted By: M.Morley on Oct 19, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (176)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The Dub-Machine on Gem.


Gem is a shorter crack (just 60') on the right hand side of the Corridor Face to the right of Colorado Crack. Climb the hand crack which widens to fists towards the top. Anchor: slung block (cordalette and/or long webbing helpful). To descend, scramble off to the north (climber's right). This involves a move or two of downclimbing.


Single set of cams - .5 to 3".

Photos of Gem Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jumbo Rock Area, Conan's Corridor, Gem 5.8
Jumbo Rock Area, Conan's Corridor, Gem 5.8
Rock Climbing Photo: leading Gem.
leading Gem.
Rock Climbing Photo: Conan's Corridor
BETA PHOTO: Conan's Corridor
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Gem on sight, first climb in J Tree
Leading Gem on sight, first climb in J Tree
Rock Climbing Photo: Great belay perch!
Great belay perch!
Rock Climbing Photo: Bill Parmenter leading Gem.
Bill Parmenter leading Gem.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gem\\\
Rock Climbing Photo: Richard Shore leading Gem
Richard Shore leading Gem
Rock Climbing Photo: Taryn at the beginning of the Gem, just after slin...
Taryn at the beginning of the Gem, just after slin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gem Jammin'. Cathy DeCecco enjoys the route.  Phot...
Gem Jammin'. Cathy DeCecco enjoys the route. Phot...

Comments on Gem Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 27, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 29, 2005

From the ground this think looks steep - and it is. It also looks like it should be a lot of fun, but the 'problem' is very, very gritty rock. Busted up my hands through my tape gloves!

Steep, gread jams, a lot of fun is you don't mind the pain. Unfortunately that spoiled it for me.
By Randy
Sep 19, 2005

The rock is not "gritty" (meaning loose ballbearings on surface); it is quite solid. The texture of all the cracks on this wall is coarse (but solid). Good jamming technique will allow you to easily climb it without tape and without damage to your hands.
By Woody Stark
Sep 20, 2005

Well, good technique or not, if I ever climb this route again, I'm going to tape my left arm to the elbow.
By Adam Stackhouse
Feb 4, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I agree with Woody. Whatever term used, it was rough rock. Not chossy, but a grinder nevertheless.
By Obi
From: Portland, OR
Oct 4, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

2nd half of this crack is pure jamming. Great way to force new crack climbers to learn jamming techniques.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 9, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route has teeth! I don't use mitts or tape but after climbing this route I was thinking about it!!

Fun but tough on the back of the hands. Ouch.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 23, 2007

It's true, the crack is very coarse, but the saving grace is the crystals are not sharp, they're pretty polished. The jug handle feature at the bottom is kinda cool, but I can't believe people sling it for pro...seems less than solid to me, to the point I wouldn't even pull on it.
By Smanson
From: Twentynine Palms, CA
Feb 8, 2009

This crack was GREAT!!! My jams felt so solid throughout the whole climb and my hands didn't get beat up like they do in most J-Tree cracks! Loved it!
By Pat C
From: Honolulu
May 11, 2009

This was my first handjam crack and first lead with a new partner, so I wanted to look awesome. My hands were sooooo tight in this crack that I lost about three layers of skin when I was finally out of it. Like putting ones fingers into a puppy's mouth.
By lars johnson
From: San Francisco, CA
Dec 20, 2009

Great climb, but for me, it felt stiffer than Colorado Crack.
By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Jun 13, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Simply outstanding! Can't believe that we were climbing Gem in 79 degree weather in the middle of June. Great crack. I felt it was an in your face kinda 5.8... one that is great for crack technique. Tape gloves, as mentioned above, are a MUST! Do this route!
By Tradoholic
Mar 14, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Grin and bear it for this one, there are no cheater holds on the face for the upper crack. I thought it was close to as hard as Colorado Crack but in a different way. If you like to suffer a bit do this crack!
By BrendanC
From: Sherman oaks, ca
May 15, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Really fun. The crux is pulling up into the crack above the wide rest. It's on bomber gear and the rest is no hands so...
However, it's a high step on a fully weighted jam. Thicker mitts will love this top section, for me it was cupped hands and not that easy since I didn't feel solid yarding on anything. My partner climbed the top like it was 5.5 cuz his hands fit perfectly, I think he put in one piece. The angle eases off quickly. Gear anchor in the block above. Walk off, or rap off Boulderado anchor 15' to climbers left. Getting to the bolt anchor requires an easy, but scary ledge walk. Gem may be "easier" than Colorado Crack but it requires more pure crack skill.
I tape for all these cracks and it didn't feel any more coarse than any of the others, except maybe Ace of Spades which is basically white Yosemite granite.
By Lonnie Valencia
From: Los Angeles, California
Mar 25, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Most assuredly a gem and a must-do!!
By Canon
Nov 22, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I liked it better than Colorado Crack because it had more straight-in jamming. Rock is coarse - lots of blood left on this route. Good gear. Great jams.
By Kevin.5000
From: pasadena, ca
Oct 27, 2014

The rock was coarse and painful. Our group consensus was that it was pretty tough for a 5.8.