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Gehe Jetzt T 
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Gehe Jetzt 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rob Kelman, Andy Kovats, 1987
Page Views: 68
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Sep 6, 2010

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This route is just to the left of Old Easy Arete. It features two sections of wide crack with the second one being the crux of the route. Start up a relatively easy, wide crack/chimney to a shelf. Move left on the shelf to a fist crack. Climb that to another shelf. From there, we continued straight up to Old Easy Arete, clipped the last two bolts on that route, and went up to its anchor. Luckily, the sketchiest parts of that route are below you at that point, so the climbing is relatively easy to the anchor.


This route starts just to the left of Old Easy Arete. Get yourself to the start of that route, and look to the left of the arete. You'll see a shelf with a wide crack in a corner. The route starts there. We rappelled from the anchor atop Old Easy Arete, but you could also walk off from there by reversing the approach to MRC Direct.


We used gear up to a #4.5 Camalot, but a standard rack up to a #4 Camalot would probably suffice. A few long slings would be nice because of the wandering nature of the route.

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