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Geese In Flight 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Carrington
Page Views: 437
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 20, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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At the crux roof.

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Description 

This is a fun, easier-than-it-looks route (save for the start) that is definitely worth the effort. A stick clip is strongly advised unless you are somewhat tall or toprope it after leading one of the routes to the left.

The crux (to me) comes right off the start as you pull aboard fighting your right hand's feeling of being levered off the flat jug. Falling here without the bolt being clipped would...suck. Once aboard, the rest of the route is probably 5.8...and delightful...though folks who are short or who like lots of footholds may disagree. The roof looks intimidating, but it climbs much easier than you fear. FWIW, you can go right at the roof, but then it'd be hard to clip the bolt before the roof. Once above the roof, the difficulties evaporate as you smile from your efforts below. The finish is shared with the two routes to the left.

Also, note I've been told that some start this a bit to the left, traversing in, which can keep the start safer and easier. In addition, we TR'ed the right start. It is loose and unprotected but goes ~5.10.

Location 

This is currently the 3rd route from the left and aims for a roof with a small, right-facing dihedral.

Protection 

9 bolts, a stick clip, and a chained 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Geese In Flight Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the crux move (for us). Add. The roofs abo...
This is the crux move (for us). Add. The roofs abo...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the start.
At the start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Deb approaches the roof.
Deb approaches the roof.

Comments on Geese In Flight Add Comment
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By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Oct 20, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I thought the crux was pulling the roof. The bouldery start was tricky, but I was able to clip the first bolt pretty easily before losing touch with the ground.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 21, 2015

The one thing that helped with the mid-route roof is to think bigger moves from jug to jug, not the little movements of a slab climber. For the start, I tried from the right...unclean and sketchy feeling. Addendum: I did it again and hand cleaned it. Still loose holds, but it goes ~5.10 R. I didn't try traversing in from the left. That might make the start feel easier. We started below the 1st bolt.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jun 17, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Clipping the first bolt is not that hard. I started climbing on the right. At the roof above, there are great holds, but the moves are strenuous. I was feeling tired from earlier in the day, but the roof moves take strength. Not technically hard, but strength is required!

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