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Geek in the Creek 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Keith Ainsworth, Dave Lindsey, Rick Leitner, 1999
Page Views: 1,986
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 18, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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  • Description 

    This is located on "The Visor" just up the hill from Surprising Crag approximately 50 feet above Frictionary. This route is the furthest right bolted line on The Visor. Ascend an easy lower section reaching the upper, more vertical section to the anchors. Getting the anchors may be the crux, reaching high to clip before making the moves may be the best, especially for someone a little shorter. It is a decent route, great for intro leaders.

    Protection 

    5 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.


    Photos of Geek in the Creek Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jonathan Bent with a great leg / heel hook on the ...
    Jonathan Bent with a great leg / heel hook on the ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The line for Geek in the Creek - the first bolt is...
    BETA PHOTO: The line for Geek in the Creek - the first bolt is...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ari cleaning the 'draws (from top rope) a few  mov...
    Ari cleaning the 'draws (from top rope) a few mov...

    Comments on Geek in the Creek Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By mary
    Jul 11, 2003

    This is pretty fun and good for beginner leaders... it would be easy to reach high and clip if you are tall... but as a midget, it was a lot easier for me to clip the anchors once they were at waste level. I though my clip position was a lot more secure even if you are higher up.
    By Puneet Pasrich
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 4, 2007

    Great fun! Just below the anchors there is a solid undercling that let me reach the anchors easily.
    By Nicole G
    From: Oceanside, CA
    Aug 1, 2010

    The majority of this climb is more like a 5.7. If you aren't tall (I am 5'4"), clipping the anchors is a bit difficult because you can't just stand up and clip - find a good undercling like one of the previous posters said and toward the right for a so-so hand. You can then stand up and be close enough to get the anchors.
    I don't know that I would recommend it for beginner leaders unless they are tall - in that case, definitely. Not so much for the short ones.
    By E Johnson
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 31, 2012

    Total waltz up to last bolt, then it became awkward 5.8. I couldn't figure out the last moves. I did not find an undercling or anything positive to get up into the final crack right of the anchors. Like the 10a to the left, it felt like the bolter must've been tall and didn't think to place anchors for average height people.
    By Gabrielle Peters
    Aug 1, 2017

    Agreed with the previous posters ... the bolts are a bit reachy for those on the shorter side (5ft 4in) / awkward.. but you can find an okay undercling to make it possible. I would ignore the flaring crack to the right.

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