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Southern Pillar
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YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob Gebhardt/Bob Duffy
Page Views: 1,811
Submitted By: MichaelE on Jul 25, 2007  with updates from Brian Malone

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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only had time for the first three pitches of Gebha...


Terrific exposure and several steep sections make this an exciting and fairly stout 5.7. Rope drag is ridiculously bad, owing to several horizontal sections--there doesn't seem to be any way around this--and there is a considerable amount of loose rock. Also, we weren't really sure where to go after pitch four, when you reach the top of the main column, so we rapped off of fixed rings found on the side of the formation (which was kind of sketchy).


Begins at the bottom of the prominent and largest fin on the Southern Pillar. It's the closest bit of the formation to Roy Gap Road.


Full rack. Rings at the top of the first pitch and some slings left around boulders after two and three. Big gear is helpful, but probably not necessary.

Photos of Gebhardt-Duffy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: From Ecstasy
From Ecstasy
Rock Climbing Photo: Watching the leader on the fourth pitch of Gephard...
Watching the leader on the fourth pitch of Gephard...
Rock Climbing Photo: From Ecstasy
From Ecstasy
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the third pitch of Gephardt-Dufty fr...
Looking up at the third pitch of Gephardt-Dufty fr...

Comments on Gebhardt-Duffy Add Comment
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By Ben Annibali
From: Palmyra, Pennsylvania
Jul 6, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

When i got to the top it was covered in lichen and there were no bolts. My partner and i did a sketchy scramble up to a tree where we found some webbing around a tree. As we rappelled we ran into the worst bush you have ever seen while on rappel. Finally we reached the top of Climbin punishment where we could rap off of bolts. Over all the climb was great, i thought that the gear was kinda far apart on the last two pitches, but it is super exposed and fun. I call it a once and done climb.
By Schurman
Aug 5, 2010

Reminds me of climbing in the mountains. Fun route - adventurous. Rapoff the east side from the top (1-70 Meter rope will do it) and walk off back to the road - easy.

Some loose rock (though not terrible at all) but great exposure.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Feb 15, 2011

climbed this last fall. some loose rock and lots of popular routes below you, so be careful.
The exposure is terrific. The climbing just ok. The gear is fairly solid. Did not do the last pitch.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
Apr 20, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Started on the right side for a harder, 5.8 variation (might actually be Rhododendron Corner). The rest was pretty consistent Seneca 5.7/7+.

We rapped down the west face off the block at the end of the 2nd pitch, which as of 19APR has a strand of webbing and two cords with 3 rap rings. From this rap you'll reach another set of slings with one ring that are decent. Alternatively, move to climbers right from the second rap station along the ledge and locate the two-bolt anchor atop Right Tope.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
Aug 3, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The best way to descend this is via a new rap line that was installed as part of some new route development inside Great Chimney.

1.) Locate the anchors atop Craving for Pink/Hidden Gem on the east face of the top pillar and rap down to a two-bolt anchor on a big ledge, just north of the large pine tree (top of Window on the West and Back-scratcher). The lower station is just below the 4th pitch of G-D, but off to climber's left a bit.

2.) Rap down into Great Chimney and find a two bolt-anchor just below a large twin-forked tree.

3.) Rap to the base (60m will make it).

Both rap anchors have an extra quick-link or ring on one side in order to create a better aligned directional pull when rapping and pulling the rope. Please don't think there's any hardware missing.

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