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Gawking At the Broad Squad 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 7/17/04 Joe Cote and Larry Boehmler
Page Views: 849
Submitted By: joshua corbett on Oct 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: I belive this is Gawking but i am not sure. photo ...


Same start as for Four Holes. At the bolt 30 ft up stay left (actually more "straight up") instead of going right on 4-Holes. Continue over the steeper "headwall" to an anchor. Pitch two climbs a very dirty slab to trees (5.2).


Start in front of a large birch tree.This is the third climb you will come to.


Pitch 1: Three bolts to the two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: One bolt to the trees

Photos of Gawking At the Broad Squad Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Gawking" starts on "4-Holes",...
BETA PHOTO: "Gawking" starts on "4-Holes",...
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchor at the top of "Gawking". Note the...
BETA PHOTO: Anchor at the top of "Gawking". Note the...
Rock Climbing Photo: New-ish 3/8" bolt on the slab directly above ...
BETA PHOTO: New-ish 3/8" bolt on the slab directly above ...

Comments on Gawking At the Broad Squad Add Comment
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By Dan Felix
Aug 26, 2012

Did the first pitch today with my kids. Definitely a dirty route- lichen covered and I doubt that will change any time soon without more traffic. There was a rope and rings on the anchor bolts, but unknown age. I left 3/8" screw links on the anchors, with the links the anchors are now at the same approximate elevation and should be easy to clip with draws. An FYI- it was sunny today, and the 3rd bolt was extremely difficult to see from below due to the sun and where it is placed! My 60 meter rope was *barely* long enough to get from the base of the birch tree up to the anchor and back down!
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Jun 5, 2016
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Spring 2016 and P1 wasn't that dirty. A wire brush might be helpful. P2 is certainly mossy, but with the dbl bolt anchor there's no need (or desire ?) to climb it!

My 215 ft (65m) static line just made the ground from the double bolt anchor with the quick links.

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