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Gator Pussy 

Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Jake List?
Page Views: 704
Submitted By: eddysamson on Dec 29, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: redrawn topo

Description 

This climb starts directly to the left of High Tech Issues on a crimpy flake at about head height. Moves right to a tiny edge of a sidepull and from there up to the High Tech Issues sidepull and top out as for that.

Was told this was a project back in November, its not on here or the new Pway guidebook. Just saw its possible FA on Saturday 12/27

Location 

Left of High Tech Issues and Maxim

Protection 

pads


Photos of Gator Pussy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: redrawn topo
BETA PHOTO: redrawn topo
Rock Climbing Photo: A close up of the starting hold and general line o...
BETA PHOTO: A close up of the starting hold and general line o...
Rock Climbing Photo: This photo shows the starting hold and general lin...
BETA PHOTO: This photo shows the starting hold and general lin...

Comments on Gator Pussy Add Comment
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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
May 6, 2015

Eddy-

I uploaded some pictures to show the starting hold and general line of travel. Just wanted to make sure they looked accurate to you. Seems like you start on the incut flake and then make a couple of moves to join 'High Tech Issues' right around the crimpy incut flake. Correct?
By eddysamson
May 6, 2015

Yeah you've got the correct start hold. In the closer shot you took, I think the first move is actually that tiny crimp/sidepull at the bottom center of the pic. Though I remember when I checked it out a few weeks ago that sidepull was smaller/shittier than I remember and almost looks like there was evidence of a break. I could be wrong and its just a tiny hold too, though.

I remember the feet were key for this line, took some serious footwork to get into position to go for the High Tech Issues sidepull.

Also there may be a harder variation that hasn't been done. I think the guy who showed me the line said that after you hit the triangle crimpy pocket thing instead of finishing HTI, you go left and top out on the tall face. I thought this was a bit more contrived since the HTI finish is right there, but it hasn't been done.
By eddysamson
May 6, 2015

I took your pics and added my own topo lines on them. IIRC its just one move to the bad sidepull, then straight into HTI sidepull with some intricate foot movements, not sure what you meant by joining HTI at the crimpy incut flake.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Oct 30, 2016

Not that anyone was going to get on this climb anytime soon but I ripped off a major hold on it today. (A better description would be it exploded in my face) Just happened to affect all three climbs. It was the first flake you match on High Tech Issues. There is pretty much nothing left behind. This climb was the most effected by it though. Maxim and High Tech Issues still go just a little different beta. Sorry guys:(
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 31, 2016

Bummer. But that flake was super thin. I imagine that will make 'High Tech', in particular, a touch harder.

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