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Lost World Butte
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Gateway to the Lost World. T 
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Gateway to the Lost World. 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b C1

Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 390', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b C1 [details]
FA: Paul Ross Todd Swain (var leads) Donnette Swain.Paul Gardner 26th sept 2000
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 577
Submitted By: USBRIT Ross on Dec 3, 2009

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Looking up P1

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This was the first route to reach the summit of this massive Butte. Amazing considering its closeness to Moab.The left summit has a register. The top of the Butte is very beautiful and the views are outstanding.It is truly a journey into the lost world. P1) Use #0.5 to #4 Friends to climb free or and on aid to bolt anchors .Continue up an overhanging off-width,passing two bolts to an anchor at the base of a chimney. 5.8,C1 or 5.10+ 100'P2)Climb an unprotected chimney 5.7(30') to four bolts enables an escape right to slabs and bolt belay.5.8 90' P3 Go left up an easy flake,then move right to a large ledge and traverse right to an obvious intermittent vertical crack that improves as height is gained. Climb the crack (5.7).(TCU's and small cams for pro)to a large ledge system. Belay on Blocks to the left. 5.8 200' P4)The Butte has a west and east summit . To gain the two summits ,to gain the two summits either scramble up a short slab to the left,fourth class,40',or follow the ramp to the right, which leads to the saddle between the two summits.Descent:- Rap 100'to top of P2 from slings around a large summit boulder,then 90' to the top of P1.The final rap is 100' to the ground... or rap Pearly Gates.


The climb is right of Kripling Groove.faces East and is not in view from the flat rock parking.Keep hiking to the right along the Butte it is well to the left of Pearly Gates. The first pitch is striking ..see photo.


Friends #0.5 through #4 with many #2 #2.5 #3 : Tcu's ,webbing 20' plus feet for the summit rap from a large boulder ., or one can rap Pearly Gates.Two 60m ropes

Photos of Gateway to the Lost World. Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Camp site for the Butte. .The cental area of rock ...
Camp site for the Butte. .The cental area of rock ...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the first pitch
View of the first pitch

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