REI Community
Section 4
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Hole S 
Blast in Black S 
Crimps and Slopers S 
Double Roof Ballet S 
Flight Time S 
Gateway  S,TR 
Growing Pains S 
Hardman S 
Left Of Time S,TR 
Mr. Aidman's Free S 
Quarryisms S 
Quickdraw S 
Short Face S,TR 
Swamp Thing S 

Gateway  

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 358
Submitted By: Johnny O on Sep 6, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The two paths are in black. Or at least close. The...

Description 

At the top of the gravel pile, step up onto several large ledges and move to the right where the path begins to move upwards on large holds. Either climb straight up or arch back to the left and step out into a hidden pocket and up through a slabby section to a left facing corner and on up to the anchors. If you had continued to climb straight up, traverse back left to the left facing corner. This is one of the best beginner climbs in the park, especially as far as length. This was once known as Beginner Right. The rock quality is quite good here.

Update: there are multiple holds that have changed on the route due to rock being removed but it is still quite easy. Bolts were added to make this one of the easiest beginner leads in the park. There is a loose rock about 1/3 of the way up the route but it is in a position where it will not come out. Do not worry if you come across it, as it does not pose any danger.

Location 

Center of the Top Rope Buttress, at the top of a pile of rock dust and gravel. To the left of Flight Time.

Protection 

Four bolts and ring anchors at the top.


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