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Bell Buttress - Main Crag
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Arms Bazaar T 
Beethoven's Fifth T 
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Cosmosis T 
Daedulus Direct T 
Double Jeopardy T 
Epiphany T 
Epiphany Direct T 
Freak on a Leash S 
Front Line T 
Frontier T 
Gates of Eden T 
Grand Inquisitor T 
Headwall T 
Hound Dog S 
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Little Man in the Boat T 
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Pitts, The T 
Purpose, The T,S 
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 
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Spoiled Moose, The T 
Spoils, The T 
Three Minute Hero T 
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 
Tiers T 
Unknown T 
Unknown Crack T 
Verve S 
West Crack T 
West Face T 
Wrinkles T 

Gates of Eden 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pat Ament & Dan Smith
Page Views: 3,665
Submitted By: slevin on Jul 10, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Kat A. emerges from the steep, middle section of G...

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  • Description 

    The Gates of Eden takes the strenuous, overhanging slot immediately left of Double Jeopardy. Nothing to hide here! The climbing is reminicent of the struggle-fests found on just about every multi-pitch 5.9 in Yosemite- this is a good trainer for building confidence in thrashing. The climbing is actually quite good, and well-protected to boot. Getting off the ground is the hard part, but the whole climb provides a sustained workout. Step left to anchors on Grand Inquisitor or Hound Dog, then rappel; or continue up and right to join upper Cosmosis. The aspiring 5.9/5.10- trad climber could devise a bit of a marathon on Bell Buttress by climbing Gates of Eden, Double Jeopardy, Cosmosis, West Crack, and West Face in-a-day. A good trainer for something like the NE Buttress on Higher Cathedral Rock in the Valley...


    Your typical rack-o-gear, up to a 3" cam.

    Photos of Gates of Eden Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Gates of Eden.
    BETA PHOTO: Start of Gates of Eden.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kat A. working her way through the 'Gates Of Eden'...
    Kat A. working her way through the 'Gates Of Eden'...

    Comments on Gates of Eden Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 22, 2002
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Gear to a #3 Camalot or #4 Friend sounds good to me. The opening overhang is tough for 10a and somewhat insecure. I remember wishing I had a second fist-sized piece.
    By Bill Wright
    May 23, 2002

    Steve's right about the workout for NE Buttress of HCR in Yosemite, except that you should hike Green Mountain first. NE Butt is the 5.9 climber's Astroman. It is big, burly, and the second half is much harder than the first half. Even 5.11 and above climbers (like Steve) respect this route.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 14, 2002

    Gates of Eden is a pretty cool route. I agree that doubles of fist size stuff makes it seem less scary. It's a good alternative if people are on Cosmosis and West Face. Don't be put off by its daunting appearance.
    By Rich Farnham
    Aug 8, 2003

    I lugged a #4 (Camalot) and doubles on the hand sizes, and ended up only using a single rack up to a #3. The crack in the back of the flare varies in size enough that you don't need lots of big gear. Rather than going up and way left to the anchors on Hound Dog, it's very easy to place a directional and step right to the anchors at the top of the new bolt route on the arete just right of Double Jeopardy (Yeah, the one with the bolts right next to the crack). If you runner the route well, you can lower off these anchor bolts and belay from the ground.
    By Hayden Yurkanis
    Oct 15, 2003

    This climb is pretty tough. The opening overhang has spaced hand jams with weird feet. However, once you get into the offwidth the climbing becomes easier--but getting into the thing is challenging. Look for the sidepulls on the right side of the chimney
    By mike c
    From: golden
    Sep 3, 2012
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    I think 10- is about right. Good start move and then it lets up. No 4s needed ....
    By butlerbt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 24, 2013
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Less of a struggle then I expected. A solid knee bar off the ground kept the bottom overhang at 5.10-. Small and varied sizes in the back of the crack allow one to leave the doubles behind.
    By Andy Hansen
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Jun 13, 2016
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    It's possible, though not mandatory, to place a #4 on this route. After the hard climbing, which is well-protected by singles in the hand size or smaller range, there's a perfect pod for a #4. I still find it odd that the anchor for this is two bolts sans chains or rappel equipment. Anyway, move left to the anchor of Hound Dog to get off this rig.
    By rkrum
    From: Colorado or somewhere else
    Aug 3, 2016
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Fun route. Not very sustained, but thoroughly enjoyable climbing the whole way to the anchor. No gear larger than a #1 or 2 are needed. Feels 5.9 at worst - there are hand jams everywhere, and I have small hands. Maybe solid 5.10 if you use the heavily chalked, flat, sloping crimp rail and the ticked V14 slab foot chips down low, rather than the bomber constricted hand jams, perfectly good foot jams and gigantic ledge on the left. The bottom looks hard, but there are huge jugs as you go to start what I expected to be overhanging arm bars.

    Not much actual OW involved but a great climb nonetheless.
    By R Sather
    From: COLORADO
    5 days ago
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Second time on this route and I really enjoyed it... this time. Unique groveling for the front range! As of today there are links on this climbs' anchor that worked well for rappelling. The bolts are spaced about a foot apart and are not ideal for lowering.

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