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Sunshine Face - Right Side
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Gates of Delirium T 
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Gates of Delirium 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro and Richard Leversee, 1976
Page Views: 687
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008

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Gates of Delirium


The first pitch is the meat of this route, and is quite popular. The second pitch is not as good and is seldom done.

Pitch 1: Hard face climbing leads past 4 bolts (11c past the first 2) and ends on the Drain Pipe ledge at a tree. On the first ascent of this pitch, Tony pulled so hard on holds that he was bleeding under his fingernails.

Pitch 2: Climb straight off the ledge to gain a left facing corner. Follow the corner (10c) past one bolt and gear placements. From the top of the corner it is possible to move left to the Euphoria flakes, or continue up and right past another bolt to a belay.

Pitch 3: Follow cracks up to the base of Paisano Pinnacle.


Far left side of the Sunshine Face proper.


Thin to 2.5".

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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 12, 2008

I bled under my nails on this one too! Only on two though- must have had stickier shoes than Tony !
By dnaiscool
Aug 19, 2014

Anyone who leads this route needs to think of the fact that Tony Yaniro was only 14 years old when he led the FA...Fourteen!!!! Tony was always way ahead of his time, and his routes do not get downgraded.
By Alex Shainman
Jul 4, 2017

Unfortunately a mediocre pitch. The moves past the third bolt are really cool, too bad the rest isn't as good. The climbing past the first bolt makes zero sense to me. Did Yaniro place that bolt on rappel? There's no stance for it. The only natural stance is about a foot-plus lower. Did lots of holds break? Felt contrived compared to the upper bits plus those bolts have logical drilling stances.
By Darrell Hensel
Jul 5, 2017

Personally I've never felt that this route was all that great either, certainly not a favorite of mine. A reasonably hard first pitch of so-so (I guess mediocre) climbing with a somewhat obscure and uninspiring second pitch. The route does have a little historical significance as Tony got his start with it at a young age.

I don't remember some of the questioned details very well through the mists of time, if I ever did know for sure (i.e., was it TD or GU on the first pitch, first bolt.) KP and I were at the crag the day he did it and talked to him afterwards. KP might remember details better than me.

One thing I do know though is that, like many Suicide routes, the first pitch has definitely changed over time with holds breaking, etc. That is a fact I'm positive of, even if I don't recall explicitly if the stance was one of those holds.

Race With the Devil is similar in that it also has an interesting first bolt that would have been hard to drill on lead. I guess the Race bolt is a little different because I'm sure there never was a "better" stance option that changed over time (I did an immediate SA of Race and remember thinking that drilling there would have been fairly brutal in EBs.) I mention Race because if he did drill that GU he could possibly have drilled the Gates bolt GU as well. In those days GU was definitely the only "accepted" style (goes without saying) and no one would have wanted to admit to a TD "transgression", so, who knows.

OK, that was a long winded way of saying I don't remember, and hence won't make any assertive claims about TD vs GU drilling (on either route), and that the routes have also indeed changed over time.

Agreed that Gates is way down on the list of Suicide classics, if it even belongs there at all. But it does kind of have some historical significance.

Edit - OK Alex, I went and checked the Race page after posting this instead of before posting, which I should have done. You've obviously done Race since we sort of discussed that bolt as well. Yeah, who knows. Both of those bolts seem kind of questionable I guess.

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