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Gastoned (Roof Variation)  

Hueco: V2 Font: 5+

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 548
Submitted By: Jason Platt on Apr 13, 2015

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Nick getting Gastoned.


Start on the jug on the right side of the overhang and fire left to the namesake gaston. Then cross over with your right, and pull the roof. Continue up and left to the top of the boulder.


This starts on the jug on the right side of the obvious roof on the south side of the Meditation Boulder.



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By Brett Billings
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 9, 2015

Ok, so this is either a different start to Meditation roof or this is essentially the same problem as both 2 Meditative Throws and Good Shooting. They all start on the low if no holds are off, then it's just a contrived start to Mediation Roof. If you're eliminating holds above the roof, both 2 Meditative Throws and Good Shooting start on the low right jug and go up and left from there. Whether you go into a gaston or whatever grip you choose to take doesn't make it a new problem. Not trying to be a jerk, but this eliminate already has 2-3 entries, I don't think we need any more.
By Jason Platt
May 10, 2015

I totally agree with you, Brett. In my mind, this isn't an eliminate. The gaston that I mention is the logical way to climb up and left from the jug. I was just adding this, since the only problems mentioned in this section of the boulder are fairly silly eliminates, and the faces themselves aren't even mentioned. The two routes you mentioned earlier starting from this jug are V4, but this face can actually be climbed at a much easier grade if it isn't an eliminate problem. I hope that makes more sense.
By Brett Billings
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 15, 2015

Jason, ok, I get where you're coming from on that. I think that this is an alternate start to the Meditation Roof problem though. You can check the entry on here, which starts with the holds just above the roof, but it's often started pasted into the tiny, greased holds underneath the roof, moving up to the holds at the lip, onto the rail, into the crack, out left to the crescent, up to the big jug, then to the top. Correct me if I'm wrong, but this sounds like the same problem, except you're starting on the low jug, into a gaston, and then it's the same.
By Jason Platt
May 15, 2015

That's fair. The last two moves I believe are the same, so I can call this a roof variation in the description. Thanks for tying to clear things up for everyone, Brett.
By Brett Billings
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 15, 2015

No worries, as long as everyone is getting out there and getting psyched on climbing, I'm happy. I learned to climb at Rotary, so maybe I'm just particular/anal/protective of it (and Meditation Roof was the first "real" problem I ever sent, haha). Hopefully it didn't come across as negative, climb on!

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