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d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Glyptodon T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Shockley's Without T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 
Vicious Rumors T 


YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 240'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Ken Prestrud and Lucien Warner 1952
Page Views: 699
Submitted By: Kurtz on May 26, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Gaston P1. Arrow shows location of first piece (g...


Good, varied climbing if you don't mind a run-out start.

P1 5.8- PG Climb the ramp. After a couple more unprotected moves trending right, sling the constriction in the horizontal on your right and breathe a sigh of relief. Step left and continue up the face past a pin to lower-angle rock and belay below the huge left-facing corner or link P2. (80 ft.)

P2 5.5 PG Move up and left following the giant corner to the GT. Splashtic and Gorilla My Dreams cross the route from the left. (100 ft.)

P3 5.5 PG Same as P3 of Gorilla My Dreams (60 ft.)


About 25 feet left of the large, left-facing corner of Oscar and Charlie. Look for a narrow, 10 ft. high ramp that leads right.


Standard rack.

Photos of Gaston Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Gaston (right leaning ramp)
BETA PHOTO: Start of Gaston (right leaning ramp)

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By Kurtz
May 27, 2014

The first piece is quite high, pay attention.

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