|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1500', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Steve Arsenault, Charlie Fowler, and Mike Munger, 1977|
|Submitted By:||James Garrett on Sep 1, 2009|
|Comments on Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By stephen arsenault
Sep 22, 2015
I climbed this route on Labor Day with my daughter's boyfriend, who leads 5.13.
There was an offwidth/squeeze chimney section, ( about 10 feet)on the 3rd or 4th pitch, in the dihedrals, which we both felt was 5.10. I've done the route 3 times,and don't remember problems in the past, but at 69+, I'm feeling my age, and thought I would add this comment.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 10, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
|I thought this was a great route. I am surprised so few comments exist. Classic line, great climbing, good cracks, good gear in stellar alpine wall. I have no idea what the rating would be now in the new millineum - seemed about right for the grade at the time but I don't recall what it was rated back then. I have always found a (+) rating harder than the grade above (-) rating so 5.9+ would then have implied sustained, pumpy climbing while 5.10- tended to have one hard move but little sustained - but that is just my impression from the past.|
By stephen arsenault
Jun 28, 2016
Glad you liked the route. I know more than a few people who have climbed this route. Unfortunately, near the top, after traversing the dihedrals, where the ramp system ends, at the big ledge, there are no obvious clues as to where to go.
We didn't put any fixed pro. on the route, and Charlie Fowler had that lead.
There are perhaps 5.9 face moves leading up and slightly left, off the ledge, and then you trend up and right. On the 1st ascent, I remember really clean
pitches from there, to the top, but last year, we missed the final good pitches by perhaps going too far right, where the rock becomes loose.
The only advice I can give to future climbers is to avoid going too far right near the top; although the climbing becomes easier, there is much loose rock, the further you go right.