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Garrett Mountain

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bridge of Sighs 
Chunk! No, Captain Chunk! 
Garden State Parkway 
Grabbin a Dragon's Tail 
Inchworm Boulder, The 
Inchworm Traverse, The 
Left Side Arete 
Lord of the Flies 
Muddy Turtles 
Nick Arete 
Right Side Arete 
Right Side Flake 2 
Romano Alternate 
Romano's Arete 
Two Step Arete 
Unfinished problem 
Yin and Yang 
Unsorted Routes:
Rest Day:
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Yellow Trail
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Red Trail
Singletrack hugging the perimeter of the park. Near Mountain Lakes, New Jersey
From MP's sister site:

Garrett Mountain Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.9005, -74.1729 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,986
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: David Hessler on Aug 24, 2012  with updates from Nicholas Hernandez
Forecast:
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Top roping the walls just south of the tower. Thi...

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Description 

The Flakes area at Garrett Mountain contains several distinct features that make this a unique bouldering area in New Jersey. The area is just below a 50 foot tower at the top of the cliff line overlooking Paterson. Parking can be found either at the top of the cliff in a small parking lot just off of a loop road which runs through Garrett Mountain Reservation. Drive on the loop road and park at the parking lot across the street from the obvious tower. You can also park below the cliff in the parking lot for Lambert's Castle.

Please note the access issues here. If you're a New Jersey resident and would like to advocate for better access, check out this Access Fund Initiative

Getting There 

From the northbound Garden State Parkway, take exit 153B to Route 3 West. Stay on this road for about two miles or less. Just after going under a bridge exit right down an exit to a right turn on Valley Road. Take Valley for about 1.5 miles to Lambert's Castle. You've gone too far if you cross a highway and enter Paterson.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 1.2 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Garrett Mountain

Nick Arete V2 5+  New Jersey : Garrett Mountain
Begin as Yin and Yang but this time when you pull onto the route using the same holds, slap around the corner for a good layback hold around the corner to the right. Heel hook far around the corner with the right foot. reach around to the right side of the arete with left hand. Pull up and keep hands just to the right or left side of the arete. Same for feet. Follow to the large ledge and then down climb. Although this climb shares many of the same holds as Yin and Yang, this is a very differen...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Jersey

Photos of Garrett Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Unclimbed East facing walls.  South of the Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Unclimbed East facing walls. South of the Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Unclimbed East facing walls.  South of the Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Unclimbed East facing walls. South of the Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Unclimbed East facing walls.  South of the Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Unclimbed East facing walls. South of the Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: East Facing walls south of the tower.
BETA PHOTO: East Facing walls south of the tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tall Walls at the NW corner.
BETA PHOTO: Tall Walls at the NW corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Potentially a few lines around this crack on the N...
BETA PHOTO: Potentially a few lines around this crack on the N...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unclimbed East facing walls.  South of the Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Unclimbed East facing walls. South of the Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Northern side of the Flakes.  Right of the High Ro...
BETA PHOTO: Northern side of the Flakes. Right of the High Ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Barb Rock.  North side of the Flakes.  Left of Hig...
BETA PHOTO: Barb Rock. North side of the Flakes. Left of Hig...
Rock Climbing Photo: High Roller Boulder.  North Side of the Flakes.
BETA PHOTO: High Roller Boulder. North Side of the Flakes.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tall Walls at the NW Corner.  Splitter crack left....
Tall Walls at the NW Corner. Splitter crack left....
Rock Climbing Photo: Tall Walls at the NW Corner.  Splitter crack right...
BETA PHOTO: Tall Walls at the NW Corner. Splitter crack right...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unclimbed East facing walls.  South of the Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Unclimbed East facing walls. South of the Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Individual Boulder at the NE corner of the Flakes....
BETA PHOTO: Individual Boulder at the NE corner of the Flakes....
Rock Climbing Photo: Unclimbed East facing walls.  South of the Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Unclimbed East facing walls. South of the Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the main wall right below the tower.
BETA PHOTO: This is the main wall right below the tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Caveman Boulder at the base of the walls.  Located...
BETA PHOTO: Caveman Boulder at the base of the walls. Located...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Flake
BETA PHOTO: The Flake
Rock Climbing Photo: TR a few minutes south of the tower.
TR a few minutes south of the tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Western side (far side) of the Flakes area.  Not t...
BETA PHOTO: Western side (far side) of the Flakes area. Not t...

Comments on Garrett Mountain Add Comment
Show which comments
By AJ W.
From: Montclair, NJ
May 2, 2015
I climbed here for the first time last summer. The bouldering is not on individual boulders really but on a ring of short vertical rock (8-20 FT high).

It is a pretty cool feature and I look forward to driving up again when I return this August to NJ. I might take some more photos for this page. If anyone wants to join let me know.
By AJ W.
From: Montclair, NJ
Jul 31, 2015
I've returned to GM a few times this summer and did some more recon with my microscender, especially at the walls south of the tower. I've included some pictures but that only tells half the story. There are more faces and they look great!

There are a lot of trees one can set a top rope to, and some boulders at the top. With a 50 ft static rope you'll have no problem climbing any portion of the wall.

As for conditions, the rock is solid where it looks solid and loose where it looks loose. On a rappel I kicked loose a torso sized rock and on my way up one climb I threw plenty of soft ball sized rocks down. So helmets are encouraged. But as I said, where it looks solid it totally is.

Overall the area has a lot of potential for great climbing. Tall walls. Varying features. It just needs more traffic than me to get cleaned up.

One more thing. BEWARE of poison ivy. It's at the top, it's at the bottom, it's even on some parts of the wall.

There are also walls at the south side of the reservation. Maybe only 2-3 routes worth. It is a lot blockier, I've been calling it the Ice Berg. It's on the outer rim trail, passed the abandoned swing set park.

If ever anyone is interested in checking GM out, just send me a message.
By cms829
From: NJ
Sep 23, 2015
FYI - Climbing isn't "legal" within the park. County Sheriffs will fine and potentially confiscate your gear if caught. If they're feeling frisky they may even drag you in and charge you for trespassing.

I grew up within a mile of the area and way back when put up a ton of routes, but that was a long time ago. Some of my favorite hard climbs are within the park. And they only got harder over time as key holds broke off. lol. The rock isn't very dense.

There' also a lot of other super fun bouldering if you hike/mtn bike around.

Poison ivy is HORRIBLE, and there is a lot of loose/weak rock. The potential for a good crag is there, but the politics and other aspects of the area will prevent it.
By David Hessler
Jul 31, 2017
It is important to note that there are two main areas of bouldering development at Garrett MOuntain: Boulders on top of the cliff near the tower, and the cliffs/boulders below the tower. Most of the photos included here are on top. They are mostly vertical and, to date(2012, contain problems in the V0-V2 range. I developed a number of boulder problems below the tower (assuming nobody else climbed them) during the period from 1998-2012. The bouldering is some of the best I've seen in NJ because of the uniqueness of formations: 25 foot flakes with aretes, overhanging face climbs. Beautiful clean holds. I believe I was the first to climb many of these problems because there was a lot of poison ivy to clean off and clearing of some landings. By the way, one of the best features is a small buttress of rock that sticks out of the hill and contains some great problems including the Inchworm Traverse. Note: one of the photos calls this formation the caveman boulder but I named it the Inchworm Boulder. Maybe that name predates what I called it. I was able to boulder here for many years by going early in the morning and staying out of sight. I was stopped only once and left immediately.

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