REI Community
Upper Slab and Upper Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ancient Via Ferrata T 
Escape Hatch T 
Faust T 
Gargoyle T 
Moraviana T 
Off-Width Chimney T 
Upper Slab Routes T 

Gargoyle 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 935
Submitted By: Don MacKenzie on Sep 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Gargoyle and Escape Hatch

Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the bolt anchor atop the Upper Slab, angle left across a grassy ledge to reach an obvious buttress. Either climb out onto the buttress immediately and follow it up (5.6) or follow the right-facing corner to a tree before traversing left onto the buttress (5.5).

Head for some chockstones in a broken down section, and climb over them. Pass a small bulge, backing up a questionable fixed pin. Keep right and head for the fist-sized crack above, using it to pull over the crux bulge near the top (5.8). Belay from a gear anchor on the comfortable ledge.

Location 

Start from bolt anchor at top left of Upper Slab.

From the top of the climb, a couple of exposed 3rd-class moves take you to the summit, whence you can hike back to the base of the cliff.

Protection 

Standard rack to #3 camalot or equivalent. Extra fist-sized cams or large hexes for anchor.


Photos of Gargoyle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun day!
Fun day!
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top of Gargoyle is spectacular. With...
View from the top of Gargoyle is spectacular. With...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob tops out Gargoyle.
Bob tops out Gargoyle.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down after the crux on Gargoyle. The  bela...
Looking down after the crux on Gargoyle. The bela...
Rock Climbing Photo: Thumbs up! Awesome crux jamming!
Thumbs up! Awesome crux jamming!
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the crux . Double #2 and #3 BD helpful. #3...
BETA PHOTO: Leading the crux . Double #2 and #3 BD helpful. #3...
Rock Climbing Photo: The corner of upper slab is used to gain Gargoyles...
BETA PHOTO: The corner of upper slab is used to gain Gargoyles...

Comments on Gargoyle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Don MacKenzie
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2012

I listed this as 5.8 because that's the guidebook rating. But it's certainly no harder than some of the 5.7's at the Precipice.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About