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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FA: Mark Ward & JimKnight 1976. FFA: Bobby Rotert 1983
Page Views: 3,652
Submitted By: Dave Budge on Oct 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Rob on the Gargoyle

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


One of LCC's best. Killer thin crack liebacking. The crux is placing gear. The second pitch rounds the ear and goes up and past the horn with the slings. Climbing through to the horn in one pitch gives the most continuous climbing and goes to an obvious stance, but requires a 70m rope and the rock just past the original anchor spot is a bit grotty. I've never climbed past the horn, reportedly the rock of the second pitch is of less quality than the first pitch.


Obvious perfect shallow dihedral on east-facing wall across from the base of Intensive Care. One can rap the first pitch with a 60m rope, be careful with anything shorter. Continuing on would require two ropes for the rappel.


One piton, which still looks fairly solid. The second piton was removed 10/11/07 because it was cracked and redundant, clean pro is found above and below. There are several good nut placements, bring multiples of small TCUs, and hand sizes for the handcrack. Placing gear is the crux for most. The two-bolt anchor with tattered nylon was revised 10/11/07. The 1/4" X 1" bolt was rusted and removed with almost no effort. It was replaced with a 3/8" X 3.5" bolt with a stainless ring anchor. The other bolt looks OK and should be safe, it has a biner with rap ring on it. Thirty feet of unsightly tattered nylon was removed.

For a more continuous pitch, climb past the anchors, around the ear, to the obvious stance under the horn with the slings and biners. Lowering from here requires a 70m.

Photos of Gargoyle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob on the Gargoyle.
Rob on the Gargoyle.
Rock Climbing Photo: The imposing dihedral of Gargoyle
The imposing dihedral of Gargoyle
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the base
View from the base
Rock Climbing Photo: Cracked 2nd peg and rusted original 1/4" anch...
BETA PHOTO: Cracked 2nd peg and rusted original 1/4" anch...

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By jonathan knight
Oct 2, 2007

Dave, we should go up there and extend the first pitch and do the second. It would clean up, I think.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 17, 2010

A good friend of mine recently pointed out that in LCC, you can count the pure crack climbs of this calibre on one finger. Oh the wit.
By apross
Jun 17, 2010

hmmm Brad, should you not be elsewhere instead of wasting time posting?, must be lunch break.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 12, 2012

jimmeny cricket this one is tough! toproping this baby is one thing, placing gear is another. i found the gear to be quite strenuous to get in, and the most obvious places are the best fingerholds. bummer. the hike up there is pretty crappy, but this one is a gooder, so do it at least once. The crux is the top 15 feet of thin fingers(red c3) up to the hand section where feet are scarce and the pods aren't awesome.
By BrittanyG
Jul 19, 2012

I did this pitch yesterday, and despite the sucky hike (even by LCC standards) which took an hour, it was worth it. Great, technical lay backing capped by steep jamming up top. The gear was surprisingly good and not that hard to place. I used doubles of Black Diamond 00-2 C3s, one each .5-2 Camalot.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Jul 31, 2012

I doubt it would take an hour to crawl to this route.
By tenesmus
Aug 1, 2012

No doubt! I love that hike and sometimes do laps on it to get in shape. At least it isn't straight up the entire way.
By Ben Folsom
Aug 1, 2012

for me the best parts of most of the climbs are the walks to get to them... at least I don't have to be scared on the walks.
By greg t
From: Chevy, Silverado
Jul 13, 2014

I usually fall more on the approaches than the rock. Whether it’s some loose talus or greasing out of my flip flops on some slabby 4th class, usually resulting in spilling my approach beer. Man, climbing outside is tough. Better just stick to Momentum from now on.
By madskates
From: slc
Nov 18, 2015

Easily one of the top 3 5.11 pitches in the canyon. Its long, clean, and the stemming is amazing. If this had a shorter approach it would undoubtedly be on the canyon classic list.

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