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BETA PHOTO: The upper slab and the end of the crack.
This route is horrible due to the vegetation you have to climb over and through. It has a good name except it is no party. There is a good stance above the bush, but the hanger-less bolts above are not appealing. The first bolt has a nut on it that makes it hard to put a wire on it. Bring a small adjustable wrench if you have one, and loosen the nut before you put a wire on it. I wish I had had one. You move right at the first bolt to a crack that leads up to the slab with the last two bolts. You can place pro in this crack. Two more bolts protect the slab up to the tree, and this area contains the crux. All the slab moves feel thin and difficult. I would not do this route if you are at the rock.
This route is to the right of Goofy
and left of Original Sin
. It starts behind a pine tree and goes up a grass filled crack to a large bush. You rappel from the tree at the top of Flakey
, which usually has slings with rings on it.
Standard rack up to a #3 Camalot. It has 3 bolts without hangers, so bring small wire nuts or keyhole hangers. Bring hedge trimmers (joking).
BETA PHOTO: The first bolt which is hard to get a wire to stay...
BETA PHOTO: One of the upper bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down at the big bush you must climb throug...