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Garden of Your Mind 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: FRA : Matt Wallace 7/26/2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 98
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Jul 29, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Cool movement on this line


Start on the same jug as for Cilley Flakes, instead of going out right to the large flakes work straight up over the bulge into the crack above. The crux is getting into the crack. Reach the crack using core tension, a sloppy crimp and a good side pull.


Currently the left most line on the Ricochet Boulder. Start on the same heavily chalked jug of Cilley Flakes.


Pad and Spotter.

Photos of Garden of Your Mind Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up for the stab to the flared slot
Setting up for the stab to the flared slot
Rock Climbing Photo: Sticking the flared slot, with a ratty finger lock
Sticking the flared slot, with a ratty finger lock
Rock Climbing Photo: First move on this fun line
First move on this fun line

Comments on Garden of Your Mind Add Comment
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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 2, 2014
rating: V5 6C

This is a really good climb and, in my opinion, the best line on the entire boulder. Engaging movement on high quality rock with comfortable holds. My favorite of the newer climbs. Though I still have to get on the stuff up at Monsters at some point soon!
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 2, 2014

There are actually a couple lines further to the left, that I did about 15 years ago, kind of a shallow wavy corner if I remember right, not very hard, V3 maybe, and a thinner thing just to it's right that I think I started as a crouch start. I wouldn't be surprised if the corner/seam was climbed before I did it. It is a pretty obvious line. I had it completely scrubbed clean and within two years it looked like it had never been climbed, lol. I never named them and can't remember the grades, so I haven't entered them. If anybody re-climbs them, go ahead and give them a name.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 3, 2014
rating: V5 6C


Yah, the rock is beautiful over there and super high quality. I've looked at it, but nothing has piqued my interest enough to make me want to clean them up. They look like fun climbs though.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Aug 4, 2014

Christian glad you liked the route so much, what do you feel grade wise on it? We had a real hard time deciding on one.

When I cleaned this line of it was quite and endeavor. There was a lot of think moss and big chunks of rock in the moss and the crack was jam packed with small rocks that took some tinkering to get out. While I was doing this I started to clean the left most arete on the face Mark mentions above, the top was fairly cleaned off but the face needs a bit more scrubbing, they do look like fairly fun lines.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 5, 2014
rating: V5 6C

The cleaning job was phenomenal. Really well done.

As for the grade, always hard to say exactly, especially since I haven't been on any 6's at Rumney lately. But, perhaps more like v5 or soft v6. Felt pretty similar in difficulty to the line to the right (Cilley Old Man).

I'd like to climb the lines up at Monsters and then see where I think this stands in relation to those.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Aug 6, 2014

I had originally thought that it might be more along the lines of V5, but after some discussions with friend who have climbed the route or tried it we settled on V6. Climb the monsters lines and compare and lets get a good consensus grade for it!
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Aug 10, 2014

I adjusted my grade to V5 after thinking about it compared to the other 6's around.

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