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> Avalon Peninsula
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> Main Face
Garden of Eden
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Main Face
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A Farewell to Arms T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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A Few Tense Moments T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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All that and a Bag of Chips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Angry Birds S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Arms Race T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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As Good As it Gets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ass Master T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ataxia S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blackout S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Boogie Wonderland T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cabbages and Kings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Candy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 M5 |
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Cepphus Grylle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Changing Corner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Creationism S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crystal Therapy T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dark Water T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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De Cat Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Drop the Mental T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Dynamic Duo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Easy Company S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Easy Way Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fifth Element T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fine Line Between Fear and Flying S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Five Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flaccid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flying Cabbages S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Frank Sinatra T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Freshly Squeezed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gabe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Gabe Direct T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Good Country Lovin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Guillotine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hakuna Matata S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Here Come the Shit Hawks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Homer Erectus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hysteria S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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I Should Know Better T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Impending Doom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Iron Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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It'll Be Fine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ivan's Corner T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c WI4 |
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Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Jekyll & Hyde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Last Chance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ledge Dweller S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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LSTB Program T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Maggie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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MC Hammer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Medicated Drama Queen S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Mid-Atlantic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Middle of a Choss Pile, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nautical Noggin T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Noggin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nubbin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Oat and a Boot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Fine Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Operation Recuperation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Out and About T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Over Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Paging Don Kiedick S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Penguins & Posers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Permanent Vacation TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Pog Mahoe S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pot Head S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pucker Up T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Redemption T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Remembrance Day T C2 |
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Scarlet Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Screaming Life S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sea World T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Seascape T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Seascape Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Second Skin S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Serpentine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Size Matters Not S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Sledgehammer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Something Heinous T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Spray Down S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Vanilla Slice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wet Chalk S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whaleback T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Yellow Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | S. Russell |
| Page Views: | 968 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | David Bruneau on Jul 24, 2016 |
| Admins: | David Bruneau |
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Description
Long crack climb over the ocean. Can only be accessed at low tide by hopping along rocks, or by rappelling in, but there is a nice belay ledge above the waterline.
This isn't a 5.10c, we felt that it was easier than a lot of 5.9's at main face. The hollow flakes in the middle of the climb were inspected and cleaned up with a crowbar (August 1st, 2019); the larger flakes could not be removed and seemed well attached, though one should still climb carefully through this section.
Climb an arching crack to a flake system below the roof. Climb past the flakes with pro in adjacent cracks then face climb up to a wide crack (#4 camalot nice here). This crack leads to a grassy ledge with a bolted anchor.
Top out by scrambling up 20 feet right of the bolted anchor, or rappel back down to the ledge
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