REI Community
Garden Cliffs

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Garden Called Peace S 
Anaphylactic Shock  T 
Blackberry Jam T 
Castle Black T 
Community S 
Criss Cross Applesauce S 
Cutting Crack  T 
Daring to Fly S 
Death of Koschei the Deathless , The S 
Fertile Crescent (closed project) S 
Fight Club (Round Two)  S 
Heirloom Project S 
Hive S 
John Henry's Hammer T 
K's Project (Closed) S 
Littlest Birds (Closed Project) T 
My Secret Garden S 
Nest S 
New Closed Project S 
Open Project S 
Rain Shadow  S 
Scorpion Hitchhikers Toilet Bowl Odyssey, The S 
Scorpion Revenge S 
Seraphim Nachash, The S 
Slithering Skink (AKA Dirty Skank) S 
Snug as a Snail  S 
Stasis Chamber, The S 
Tombstone Project (Open Project) S 
Vine (Open Project), The S 
Wildlings S 

Garden Cliffs Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.44123, -122.57255 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,265
Administrators: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Micah Klesick on Feb 8, 2016
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Completed 5.11a. Fun route.

Description 

This cliff lies about two hundred feet north on Quartzville Drive from the bouldering area. The cliff is 30 to 70 feet tall. Most of the routes are sport climbs with high first bolts meant to be stick clipped. As of 9/25/16 there are 23 bolted routes. Two of these are open projects, three are closed projects. There are three trad routes. None of the climbs can be accessed as TR routes, though that may change, and there is one route under 5.10, which may also change.

There is a community stick clip at the cliff and a community set of hedge trimmers. Feel free to use them both. The battle with the blackberries never ends.


There is also a guidebook that is updated at the cliff in a crack, hopefully it is obvious.

Routes with ropes hanging on them or red ribbon tied to the first bolt are closed projects. Please respect the closure until the routes are listed here, not all of the closed projects are listed on Mountain Project but all of the open ones are.

Feel free to contact the route developers via MP.

Getting There 

Behind the Garden Cliffs. Trail is to the east, about 80 yards down the road from a small pullout parking spot on the cliff side.
Here is a link to a GPS Track that you can view, or even download to your phone and follow.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.4 miles from here

30 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',12],['5.12',8],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Garden Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Garden Cliffs:
Community   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
A Garden Called Peace   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Nest   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Slithering Skink (AKA Dirty Skank)   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
My Secret Garden   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Scorpion Hitchhikers Toilet Bowl Odyssey   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Scorpion Revenge   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 55'   
Criss Cross Applesauce   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   
Daring to Fly   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   
The Seraphim Nachash   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Snug as a Snail    5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Wildlings   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Fight Club (Round Two)    5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Garden Cliffs

Featured Route For Garden Cliffs
Rock Climbing Photo: Really fun route up the clean prow

Daring to Fly 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Oregon : Willamette Valley : ... : Garden Cliffs
This is the 5 star route here and a must do! Climb up good holds on the right side of the "cave" to a large hold about 30' up. Pull a quick cruxy move, and shake out. Work up to a high clip and then figure the unique crux out, requiring both technique, power and compression. Get a final shake on the jug, and then finish the last pumpy moves to the anchor. A surprisingly sustained route, despite the several good holds and (mostly) vertical terrain....[more]   Browse More Classics in Oregon

Photos of Garden Cliffs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 11-
BETA PHOTO: 11-
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the locals
One of the locals
Rock Climbing Photo: Jayson, Kirsten and Haley at the hang with a midda...
Jayson, Kirsten and Haley at the hang with a midda...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aerial view of the Garden Cliffs. The trail from t...
Aerial view of the Garden Cliffs. The trail from t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cliff band from the road.
BETA PHOTO: Cliff band from the road.
Rock Climbing Photo: Technical and hard face up to cool moves through t...
BETA PHOTO: Technical and hard face up to cool moves through t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Section of the cliff. Probably will hold ma...
BETA PHOTO: Middle Section of the cliff. Probably will hold ma...

Comments on Garden Cliffs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jayson Nissen
From: Corvallis, OR
Sep 9, 2017
CONDITION REPORT 
I grabbed two lockers that were sitting out at the base of the cliff below Learning to Fly. I'm happy to return them to their rightful owner.
By Jayson Nissen
From: Corvallis, OR
Apr 22, 2016
I think we should rename the cliff, "The Garden Animals Cliff".

This place is loaded with life: snakes, bees, wasps, scorpions, mice, bats, hummingbirds, blue tailed skinks.
By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
Apr 28, 2016
Also mosquitos...bug spray should be part of the standard early season rack!
By Dallas Mulkey
Jul 25, 2016
Went here recently and could not find the way back to the cliff, ended up just bouldering because that's all we could find haha. Can anyone give us directions to the cliff from the bouldering area?
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Jul 25, 2016
You walk past the boulders on the road for 100 yards, and then the trail is to the left. You can see the cliff from the road.
By Dallas Mulkey
Jul 26, 2016
Thanks for the help Micah! Hopefully the crew and I can find it this Sunday when we head back.
By Jayson Nissen
From: Corvallis, OR
Aug 4, 2016
An updated pdf guide for the area can be found at:

dropbox.com/sh/0cnzxuuqe15rf0p...

It includes directions and topos. I hope to keep updating it as more routes go in on the cliff.
By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
Aug 29, 2016
For the traveling climber, abundant primitive roadside camping exists beginning about 20 minutes up Quartzville Rd. from the crag, with sites getting better the further up you go. Unfortunately trash appears to be a problem in some of these so if you feel like doing community service bring an extra garbage bag with you. There are many excellent swimming holes along the Wild and Scenic Quartzville Creek as well, making for a perfect afternoon chill out after a morning of sending at the Garden.
By Michael Swanson
From: Oregon
Aug 31, 2016
Climbed here yesterday, had an awesome time. The style is very similar to the Garden boulders. I'm sure most people who have bouldered at the Garden have looked over at these cliffs and wondered... kudos to the developers for putting up some fun and engaging sport climbing up there.
By Jayson Nissen
From: Corvallis, OR
Feb 12, 2017
Some one cut the extra lengths off of several of the fixed ropes that have been used to put up most of these routes. It was a very odd and random act of vandalism that didn't make any sense to me, but will make it more costly and time consuming to continue developing the routes. If anyone knows anything about this I would obviously like to know. If anyone has concerns about any of the development at the Garden Cliff I am happy to talk about it. Despite this annoyance I had a fantastic day climbing and am pretty sure that the cliff just needs 24 hours for enough routes to be dry and climbable.

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