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Garbonzo Bean 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Larry Treiber, Chuck Graf, Bob Watts, Phil Martineau, 1973
Season: winter
Page Views: 2,989
Submitted By: Michael John Gray on Aug 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Starting up Garbanzo Bean, photo by Peter.

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  • Description 

    This is the obvious upper offwidth crack on the West side of the N. face of Toms Thumb. The first pitch climbs a nice hand crack with good pro 5.7 that progessively gets easier up some face and crack to an alcolve roof directly below the upper offwidth section a good belay can be found here. Next P2 Traverse left onto the face "very exciting" and continue up to the wicked exposed and scary offwidth "grand fun" maybe pro with a 3.5 and a 4 camalot although we found ourselves moving up a 4 with some moderate runout.


    N. face of Toms Thumb Obvious upper offwidth.


    medium to large cams up to 4 camalot.

    Photos of Garbonzo Bean Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Garbanzo Bean (5.7).
    BETA PHOTO: Garbanzo Bean (5.7).
    Rock Climbing Photo: The step across for some is harder than others
    BETA PHOTO: The step across for some is harder than others
    Rock Climbing Photo: Zoom in on Garbonzo Bean. Also note the sickness o...
    Zoom in on Garbonzo Bean. Also note the sickness o...

    Comments on Garbonzo Bean Add Comment
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    By lou
    Feb 12, 2008

    Great climb... very nice handcrack for the first crack.. then long slings for the left traverse at the bird shit ledge.. ( was wet from recent rain ).. then up the off width... 5.9 IMHO... take some wide stuff for the upper or be comfortable with walking a BD 4 for a ways. Loose blocks on the upper part of the first crack just before the traverse.
    By Scott Z
    From: Highlands Ranch, CO
    Feb 8, 2009

    lower crack was nice. For a single pitch run, bring long slings or deal with ropedrag or the potential whipper at the traverse - good exposure, poor pro below traverse, but can get some pro in at/above to the right (hence long slings). I'm not big on OW climbing anyway and found ropedrag to be an added drag. plus would've been nice to bring a #5.
    By roman d
    From: Pasadena, CA
    Jan 10, 2010

    Solid physical climb. Physical crux right off the deck, mental crux is the smell on the traverse. Fun climb to lead on hexes.
    By arjunmh
    From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
    Feb 19, 2012

    Did this one again after a few years on Hanna's bidding. Still a physical climb with a hard start and the mental crux of the traverse is very real. If you don't like runout bring wide gear for the top. I didn't and was about 30 ft above my last piece before feeling secure.
    By Tradiban
    Sep 25, 2012
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Avoid this, P1 goes to fist size quick on polished feet, smells like shit the whole way. I took one look at the shit stain on the traverse and opted for straight up, which sucks too, on chossy rock.

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