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Mount Yukla
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Gank'd and Slayed 
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Gank'd and Slayed 

WI6 M5 A2

   
Type:  Aid, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2801', Grade V
Original: WI6 M5 A2 Steep Snow [details]
FA: John Kelley and Clint Helander
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter, Spring
Page Views: 671
Submitted By: clint helander on Sep 17, 2012

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Photo John Kelley

Description 

From the base of the snow cone, climb up to the junction of the three main routes on the northwest face. A thin ice smear on the right marks a possible start for the route. The first ascent went slightly higher and climbed a snice covered slab (AI3) that narrowed into a steepening dihedral (A2).

Continue up steps of ice (WI3/4) to a mossy chimney on the left (M5).

The next pitch leads to a dihedral and right trending corner system. Traverse steep snow to an obvious rock outcropping and belay.

Several pitches of moderate ice (WI4) lead to the route's crux pitch. Climb a short but slightly overhanging streak of ice with minimal protection (AI6). On the first ascent it was necessary to chop through a small cornice.

Assess avalanche conditions as you enter on to a hugely exposed snow field. The first ascent party carefully traversed more than a rope length of unprotected snow and dug a cave for their second bivy before climbing one more pitch of WI3 to the top.

A detailed report can be found in the 2007 American Alpine Journal.

Location 

Northwest face of Mount Yukla.

Protection 

Full alpine rack to #2 cams, full set of nuts, pins and beaks! 8-12 ice screws.


Photos of Gank'd and Slayed Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A steep corner system low on the route. Photo by J...
A steep corner system low on the route. Photo by J...
Rock Climbing Photo: First bivy on an exposed slab. Photo by John Kelle...
First bivy on an exposed slab. Photo by John Kelle...
Rock Climbing Photo: Excellent ice runnel on Gank'd and Slayed. Photo b...
Excellent ice runnel on Gank'd and Slayed. Photo b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Moderate ice climbing on the route. Photo by John ...
Moderate ice climbing on the route. Photo by John ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The first belayed pitch on the route.
The first belayed pitch on the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching start of route
Approaching start of route
Rock Climbing Photo: Gank'd and Slayed takes the serpentine ice line th...
Gank'd and Slayed takes the serpentine ice line th...

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