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Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b WI3 M6 R

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 7 pitches, 1300', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b WI3 M6 R [details]
FA: Ice Cube, Phil Wortmann, Noah McKelvin
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,076
Submitted By: Noah McKelvin on Jan 26, 2016

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I tried this pitch but bailed on a #2 Pecker above...

Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pass this exam, and the beers are on me for you and your partner!

This is the best route I've done on the Dark Side, without a doubt. It was the biggest day I've had over there. This route follows terrain right of Bird Brain Boulevard. You top out above BBB and all the other routes on the buttress. It has an awesome position! This was established ground up without bolts. For me, it was a completion of the long goal of establishing a boltless line on the biggest part of the bird brain buttress. And it barely went without bolts.

Below is what we encountered. Pitch lengths and grades are very approximate.

P1 (WI3 M5, 50ish meters). Start in the obvious groove/chimney. Climb up steep M5 terrain for a while until it mellows out. It then gets steep again. Tunnel through overhanging, M5+ snow (time consuming), and then cut right to a sweet, smallish roof. Mantle by tree hugging. There is a bit of ice on this pitch!

P2 (M3, 50ish meters). Cut left, and then slog up steep snow until you get to a slab. Cut left and around the corner to a point where moss heads up the slab. Belay at the last tree before the SWEET, M4 corner.

P3 (M4, 40m). Beg your partner to let you lead this pitch! Ice climb a dead tree, and head up the mossy corner, the crux being near the top before the tree hugging mantle. You get moss sticks for days! Belay at a tree right after the mantle.

P4 (M5+, 70m). This pitch is awesome! Head up the obvious groove above until it turns into a very unique chimney. Steep and sustained M5+ finds you at a tree after 73 meters or so.

P5 (M3, 60ishm). This is the hardest slog pitch by far! Head up and left, and cut left into a gully. Follow it with some M3 climbing to a snow mushroom mantle. Now you're in a big cave looking up, thinking to yourself "What the hell is this."

P6, "The Graduate Exam" pitch (5.10 M6, 55ish meters). This is THE pitch of the route, a wild one. Ice Cube brought out his AK for this one. I'd recommend you do the same. The cave is about 30 to 40 feet deep. You get an awesome belay! Chimney up and place some gear, and then chimney back down and around the roof to a fixed #2 Pecker. Wild position. Hold your breath, and traverse straight right from the Pecker around the corner to a no hands rest. Now climb up the (harder than it looks!) steep groove to a difficult bulge. Mantle and follow the low angle groove to a dicey snow mushroom you pull around to a belay in an alcove. Honest! Have your head screwed on tight for this one.

P7 (M5/+, 50+ meters). For us, it was starting to get dark. Pull a couple short, M5+ roofs with bomber gear to glorious moss sticks. Traverse steep snow to the a hidden M4 ramp. This is harder than it looks. Mantle and start digging a trench up the 60/70 degree snow for maybe 50 feet. Mantle again to the top. Woohoo!!! An awesome position right here!!!

Rappel back down the route using whatever trees nearby. We used most of our alpine draws to rig rappel anchors. You may not find some of them.

Watch out for stuck ropes.

Location 

Hike up to the start of BBB's P1, and then cut right until you can do a short scramble to a nice ledge with a tree.

Protection 

A 70m rope and a standard Dark Side rack. Big gear is useful along with a #2 and #3 Pecker.


Photos of Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The last three pitches. Head up and left from here...
BETA PHOTO: The last three pitches. Head up and left from here...
Rock Climbing Photo: The awesome M4 corner!
The awesome M4 corner!
Rock Climbing Photo: P1.
P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: The approach.
The approach.
Rock Climbing Photo: The topo.
BETA PHOTO: The topo.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Graduate Exam pitch.
The Graduate Exam pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: P1.
P1.

Comments on Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It Add Comment
Show which comments
By phil wortmann
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
Jan 26, 2016

Too good a line not to be repeated! So psyched for this one. Great day in the hills, Noah!
By thehackattacks
From: Park City, UT
Apr 25, 2016

Ain't nuthin to it... ;)

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