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Gangplank Rock Climbing 

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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Zach Wahrer on Aug 27, 2015

49° | 41°

49° | 36°

44° | 33°

50° | 42°

46° | 38°

44° | 35°
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This wall is the furthest north of the 3 cliffs and has the shortest approach. I've used the grades given in the guidebook, but personally I felt the pitches were easier by at least half a grade. Overall, the routes are very well protected, with both traverses and cruxes featuring closely spaced bolts. There are some spots with larger spacing, but the climbing is generally easy.

Consider bringing a few slings to reduce rope drag as all the routes on this wall have traverses on them. Some bolts can also be back cleaned in order to cut down on drag as well.

Getting There 

From the parking, turn right when the trail forks, or just follow the signs. The trail leads to the edge of the cliff and a two bolt rap anchor. Four rappels (varying from 20m-27m each) will lead you down to a "gangplank" where you can belay. All 3 routes start from here. The first rap is straight down the gully, with an anchor just out of sight on a ledge. The second rap is down to a visible anchor on the tree ledge below. The third rap goes down and slightly right from this anchor, tending down through some roofs. The final rap goes down to the water.

Some strategy must be employed to keep your rope out of the water. We hung draws on Baywatch's first pitch and clipped one side of the rope in so that when we pulled the rope it would stay in along the face and not fly into the drink. Top-roping the first pitch is also an option.

Climbing Season

For the British Columbia area.

Weather station 7.1 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Gangplank
Rock Climbing Photo: Sarah leading off on P1 of Mermaid.

Mermaid 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  North America : Canada : ... : Gangplank
Mermaid is a fine 4 pitch climb that manages to skirt most of the big roofs on the wall. It is the furthest left of all the climbs.P1 (10b): Traverse left off the belay ledge, clipping several bolts along the way. The line then heads up for a few more bolts and finishes at a semi-hanging belay bolt anchor.P2 (11a): Traverse hard right off the belay, traversing under the roof. Some loose rock on this pitch so stay heads up. The bolt line then heads up passing the crux moves on crimps. After passi...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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