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Gang of Four 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Garthwaite (Nov. 2005)
Page Views: 219
Submitted By: Fred Gomez on Feb 21, 2011

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Gang of four is every bit as good as its more traveled neighbors (G&T, Tsing Tao, White Devil). The best thing about this sector, is that although all the routes look the same, each one climbs a bit differently. This route requires the least finger strength, with the difficulty arising from moving between the holds rather than holding on to the holds.

Be prepared for some hard climbing right from the get go. A hard lock off on some slopey holds leads you to some jug hauling. The next few bolts feature some committing boulder problems split by good rests. Traverse right in to White Devil for the last bolt of climbing. Although it shares a bolt it still has its own independent set of anchors.


This route is on the highly pocketed wall in the center of the cliff. The main trail leads you to this route. Look for the route with noticeably less chalk than the surrounding routes.


12 bolts + anchors

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