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Gang of Foreplay 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Kipper, Chris Trautman, July 1998
Page Views: 82
Submitted By: claytown on Aug 14, 2011

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>


A two pitch route with the first pitch being a short (50 foot) left angling off fingers splitter to a bomber ring bolt anchor. This pitch, although short, is a really awesome crack (although more like 5.9 than the 10b that the book gives it).

I didn't do the second pitch but from the ring bolt anchor, you would continue up the low angle slab past bolts (maybe this would have been the 5.10 part?)


just left of fissureman's friend. Good to do both real quick on the way past this crag to other classics.


P1. All that is required is a yellow, grey, red alien and a .5 camalot. You could also drag up a #1 and/or a .75 and or a second yellow alien, but it's not runout to do the whole pitch on 3 - 4 pieces of gear.
P2 has bolts.

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Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Awesome crack, but short and very soft on the grade (I'd say 5.9 or 10a). Good warm up for some of the harder climbs on High Cliff.
By Bill Kipper
Apr 13, 2014

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. Graded it 5.9 at the time, and that's how it went into the new route book at MEC Vancouver, so I was more than slightly surprised to see it graded .10b in the guide.

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