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(4) Gold Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afternoon Delight T 
Beyond the Glory S 
Bitterroot T 
Chaos T,S 
Dirty Jugs S 
Ganesh  T 
Kung Fu S 
Masterpiece Theatre S 
Screaming for Change T,S 
Siddhartha T 
Sweeping Beauty S 
Whine and Cheese S 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Micah Klesick on Oct 1, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Ganesh on the right, Whine and Cheese on the left.


This route was originally rated "R" due to a large detached block 2/3 the way up the route, sitting in the back of a ledge. Hence the route was never done, and grew brush and accumulated dirt. I cleaned it with Topher and we tested the block out. After repeatedly jumping on it, and hitting and prying on it, I could not get it to budge. This DOES NOT mean its safe. So climb at your own risk. I however, don't feel it warrants the "R" rating from that block. Now that said, DON'T place gear under or on the side of the block. There's my disclaimer.
Now for the route. Climb up Dirty Jugs, but where you would go right onto the ledge (with the Sweeping Beauty Belay anchor), cut into the dihedral on the left of the upper half of Dirty Jugs. Lots of stemming, and plenty of holds. Shares anchors with Whine and Cheese (5.10d) on the left.


A standard rack to 2" should do the trick. Not a ton of gear placements, but nothing particularly crazy, and it is never run-out. Use a long runner on the last bolt of the Dirty Jugs start.

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