REI Community
Right End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andromeda T,TR 
Black Holes Matter T 
Gamma Ray Arete T,TR 
Gemini T,TR 
Illegal Aliens T 
O'Ryan's Belt T,TR 
Quantum Entanglement T,TR 
Starboard Tack T,TR 
Starstruck T,TR 

Gamma Ray Arete 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 2013
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 189
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Sep 4, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


This route follows a strenuous line up and around the right end of the main face. Great climbing above, needs cleanup near the bottom.
A critical pink Tri-Cam placement is the best gear for making the moves around the corner; nothing else we've tried works well in the thin crack above the bolt.
Climb from near the right end of the base up easy slab, protecting in the vegetated crack to the right, to a stance by the right-facing corner beneath an overhang. Clip the bolt and make hard moves up and right, crossing that vital Tri-Cam placement horizontal crack, then swing around onto a tenuous, strenuous stance. A move up eases the burden, and a bit farther a big stance allows good gear for the final overhang move to the anchors.


Right end of the low base of the cliff.


Bolt Anchors at top.
Standard rack, with an emphasis on small cams - and of course, that all-important pink Tri-Cam.

Comments on Gamma Ray Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Blissab
Sep 28, 2014

Led this route at the Southern Adirondack Climber's Festival...good route and good crag.

However, the anchors for the Gamma Ray Arete will twist the rope horribly during the final lower-off. Probably better to rap the final lower-off.

Thanks to all who have cleaned and developed this climbing!
By Jay Harrison
Sep 30, 2014

The problem was that someone had removed the intermediate quicklinks from the system; people were therefore clipping into carabiners that were lying flat on the wall. During a rappel, the 'biners would torque off the surface, imparting a twist to the rope. If more anchor material disappears, it may be necessary to add your own, or (unfortunately) rap off a tree to prevent tangles...which is why removing said gear is not a good thing.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About