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Gallows Edge

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Main Wall 
Pit, The 
Upper Tier 

Gallows Edge Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 6,400'
Location: 35.8178, -106.1873 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 17,135
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 4, 2007

83° | 54°

82° | 55°

76° | 50°

74° | 47°

72° | 47°

71° | 47°
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The main wall at Gallows Edge. Nice basalt sport c...


East facing basalt crag known for its short, moderate sport routes. This is often the place local aspiring sport climbers cut their teeth. Winter climbing is great here with the dark, east facing aspect receiving plenty of sun.
Gallows is comprised of three areas: The Main Wall, The Pit and The Upper Tier with most of the routes located on the Main Wall.
The routes are packed tightly and it can get quite crowded but the social scene is often friendly and fun.

The crag was discovered by Carlo Torres, Jon Butler, Lucas Laeser, and Mike Lyons, among others, and remained almost totally undeveloped until very recently. Most first ascents were done solo.

A very nice online PDF guide by Guido Bender can be downloaded from the Los Alamos Mountaineers website.

Getting There 

From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs. Follow the good climber's trail down to the third shelf. This is Gallows Edge.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

26 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Gallows Edge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Gallows Edge:
Princess Buttercup   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 32'   Main Wall
Pejos Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 45'   Main Wall
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 40'   Main Wall
99 Red Balloons   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 45'   Main Wall
The Fire Swamp   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 40'   Main Wall
Once Were Warriors   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 45'   Main Wall
The Odor Takeda   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   The Pit
Planet of the Apes   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 40'   Main Wall
The Thunderbird Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 35'   The Pit
Dave And Crissa's Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Upper Tier
Gralisa Leen   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   The Pit
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Gallows Edge

Featured Route For Gallows Edge
Rock Climbing Photo: Prince Humperdink

Prince Humperdink 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Main Wall
The hardest route at Gallows Edge. Work your way through short, steep and powerful moves through a series of two-finger pockets near the arete to a huge jug below the very high first bolt. Using the arete on the right apparently makes it a bit easier (5.11-ish) but seems natural and arguably more fun. A few more steep moves lead to the second bolt before the angle backs off past the third bolt to the anchors for The Fire Swamp. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Comments on Gallows Edge Add Comment
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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 4, 2007
NOTE: Rust-colored steel (and some aluminum) carabiners were placed on the chains of all routes on the main wall of Gallows recently. PLEASE DON'T STEAL THESE! The carabiners make it safer and more convenient for everyone and extend the life of the chain anchors because the carabiners can be easily replaced while chains aren't as easy to replace.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Apr 4, 2007
just a suggestion. on fixed biners around here, sometimes they're held in place with a little baling wire, or a nylon zip tie. Helps keep them correctly oriented, and also lets people (who might be clueless as to local fixed gear ethics) know that they're supposed to be there.
By C Miller
From: CA
Apr 4, 2007
Good info about the bailing wire as it discourages the casual thief, but zip-ties are a bad idea as the plastic degrades over time and becomes trash.
By Wa3lt
Jan 2, 2009
Anchor upgrades are much appreciated, guys - the chains I installed when I bolted most of these are close to 10 years old now, and from what I've heard, the routes are quite popular.

Unfortunately, the folks who are most likely to climb here are also the most likely to *really* want/need booty gear, or to just not know the score enough to not take them.

I'm glad to hear that folks are enjoying the Gallow's Edge. We certainly enjoyed putting up the routes!
By Curt Dvonch
Nov 3, 2011
I lost a Merrell down jacket near Gallow's Edge last weekend (Sunday) and haven't been able to find it while searching the area. Anyone see it? It is dark green.
By Brett Kettering
Apr 18, 2013
Over the past year, in consultation with Jason Halladay and other FAs, I:

1) Placed an additional bolt on The Fire Swamp to protect against potential ground falls. It is the new 3rd bolt.

2) Placed steel biners (painted rust) at the top of The Fire Swamp. The biners are zip-tied to the chains to discourage removal.

3) Placed 22kn-rated chains, links, and steel biners (painted rust) at the top of ROUS. The biners are zip-tied to the chains to discourage removal.

4) Placed 22kn-rated chains and links (painted rust), and aluminum biners recycled from the tops of other GE routes at the top of Giant Killer. The biners are integrated with quick links and should be obvious that they are meant to stay there.

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