Gallery Wall Rock Climbing
The Gallery Wall is a broad south-facing sunny wall, located right of The Sponge
and Dream Tower
. It showcases a couple of sport climbs, which are rarely climbed (despite being near the popular Sponge) due to difficult grades and the need to scramble 50' to reach the start of the "real climbing". The two documented climbs are at the left end of the formation, and potential for more climbs might exist to the right on this wall, although there are many ledges and bushes. Across the View
(5.11d) is the left route. Presumed to be Modern
(5.12a/b) is the right route.
These two climbs start on a bushy but big enough ledge 50' up the cliff, which is accessed by a 5.2 scramble that might be protectable with gear, but most will solo it. A 60m rope just barely reaches from the very base of the cliff to the top, and back to the bottom, so belayers don't need to climb up to the ledge, but it's recommended, especially if they intend to climb the route anyway.
Gallery Wall is 200' right of the Sponge. Cross the stream on a log directly in front of the Dream Tower, then walk right a short ways.
Climbing Season For the Las Conchas area.
Weather station 2.1 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Gallery Wall
Across the View 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a New Mexico
: Jemez Valley Area
: ... : Gallery Wall
Across the View has fun moves, but is licheny, due to lack of traffic.Scramble up to the alcove ledge by the easiest path, which should be no harder than 5.2 (optional belay). A steep section past the first bolt is much easier than it looks, because the huecos are huge. Above, bust left up a black streak through the overhanging crux, to a physical exit move on lichen-covered holds. The hardest part is a 2 or 3 move sequence of tough moves, but if you read them quickly, it may feel soft...[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico