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Gallatin Canyon

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From MP's sister site:

Gallatin Canyon Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,000'
Location: 45.40709, -111.22527 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 184,392
Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Apr 6, 2007  with updates from Ben Redinius
Forecast:
Today

41° | 29°
Wednesday

47° | 32°
Thursday

43° | 29°
Friday

38° | 26°
Saturday

39° | 26°
Sunday

41° | 26°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Description 

I first spied the crags of Gallatin Canyon in spring of '02. I was driving up from Jackson, WY with my dad, planning on touring Montana State. After passing through the stretch with the climbing, I didn't even need to see the school- my decision was made! Not really, but I was pretty psyched.

Gallatin Canyon has two distinct areas. Driving S. from Bozeman, you'll first spot the limestone buttresses. There's great sport here (including a south facing winter area called Scorched Earth), as well as some mixed routes.

A couple more miles to the south, you'll spot the main, high-quality gneiss area. On your right, somewhat hidden, sits the Gallatin Tower, with tons of classic routes. The left side is where the majority of the climbing is. This area, with few exceptions, is trad. While you may have to wait in line for a classic route on a weekend in peak season, 9 times out of 10, you won't. High quality lines are everywhere.

Pay campgrounds are located in the canyon a couple miles south of the climbing. For free camping, throw down a tent on a number of USFS roads that exit the canyon (Squaw Creek, Portal Creek, etc...).

Getting There 

From Bozeman, head west for a few minutes to reach US 191. Head south on 191 for 20 or so minutes and you're there. For the Gallatin Tower and the Cube, park in the prominent pullout on the right. For all other areas, continue for another minute or two and cross a bridge. Immediately afterwards, park in a large dirt area next to the river.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.3 miles from here

414 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',51],['3 Stars',161],['2 Stars',145],['1 Star',53],['Bomb',4]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',5],['5.8',19],['5.9',24],['5.10',68],['5.11',51],['5.12',34],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',47],['V2-3',35],['V4-5',48],['V6-7',24],['V8-9',9],['V10-11',1],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Gallatin Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Gallatin Canyon:
Skyline Arete   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   Skyline Buttress : Skyline North
Sparerib   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 225'   Sparerib Area
The Dagger   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 25'   Gallatin Tower
Watchtower Standard Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   The Watchtower - First Tier
The Waltz   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   The Waltz Formation
Crystal Delight   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Fish Face
Standard Route   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Gallatin Tower
Fire Escape   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Fish Face
Thing In Between   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Gallatin Tower
Pineapple Thunderpussy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Pineapple Buttress
Ashes of Stone   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 190'   Ashes of Stone Buttress
Diesel Driver   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   Black Line Buttress
First Best   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Gallatin Tower
Tigger   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   Gallatin Tower
Spare Tire   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 90'   Gallatin Tower
Black Line   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   Black Line Buttress
Orange Crack   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Gallatin Tower
Soft in the Middle   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Gallatin Tower
Bowling for Buicks   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Gallatin Tower
The Fugitive   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Tango Tower
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Gallatin Canyon

Featured Route For Gallatin Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: J. Griffin fights a hangover and some Gally 5.12.

Beautiful Freak 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  Montana : Gallatin Canyon : ... : Skyline South
Start 20' right of "Sesame" (furthest east of first cluster of Hall/Swanson sport routes on south side of Skyline) Five red/black hangers sit above a perched belay ledge. Two 5.12 cruxes off the belay lead to 70'of 5.10' trad with a sneaky .11 crux. Sweet right facing corner finish. Two bolt rappel anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in Montana

Photos of Gallatin Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tick season in Gallatin Canyon- Ben Elias on Spare...
Tick season in Gallatin Canyon- Ben Elias on Spare...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ashes of Stone
Ashes of Stone
Rock Climbing Photo: The Throwback, high in the Gallatins...
The Throwback, high in the Gallatins...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gallatin river
Gallatin river
Rock Climbing Photo: The east side of Gallatin Canyon from the top of G...
BETA PHOTO: The east side of Gallatin Canyon from the top of G...
Rock Climbing Photo: Two sport routes, ,8 mile south of 35mph bridge.
BETA PHOTO: Two sport routes, ,8 mile south of 35mph bridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Evening light on the east side
Evening light on the east side
Rock Climbing Photo: Storm coming into the canyon view from the Tower
Storm coming into the canyon view from the Tower

Comments on Gallatin Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By NickinCO
From: colorado
Aug 24, 2012
Any info on free camping in the area?
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Aug 31, 2012
For good free camping, try Storm Castle Road (north of the climbing) or Portal Creek Road (south of the climbing). These options are currently inaccessible due to fires, however.
By IJMayer
From: Bellingham, WA
Jun 14, 2013
Looking for a partner for Gallatin Canyon. This might be appropriate for the forums, but I'm hoping for quick responses. I'm psyched for anything 5.10d and easier trad. Personal message me if you're also looking for a partner!
By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
Aug 19, 2013
There is a really nice pay campsite south of the climbing at swan creek- Off the main highway a little, so you don't have the traffic noise.
By B-Mkll Mackall
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 20, 2014
Any beta on the gneiss crag JUST off the road (like abutting a road pull-off) a mile or two before Greek Creek heading southbound? Poked around it today and the rock looks solid, even saw a lone bolt above a small roof so clearly its been climbed...
By Taylor VanRoekel 1
Sep 3, 2016
Hey guys,
My partner Alex and I left some gear (A sling, alpine draw and BD stopper) just underneath the imposing runout section on The Joker's third pitch on the Watchtower in the canyon. If there are any bold folks out there braving this climb, I'd be more than happy to trade a sixer of your choice for the returned gear. My number is 507-340-7409, tvanr507@gmail.com. Thanks!

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