Gallant Wall Rock Climbing
Sunset from the top of the Gallant Wall. Photo by...
The Gallant Wall sits high on the ridge on the south of Ferguson Canyon. Neighboring cliffs (The Cove, Punk Rock) block the afternoon sun on the right side of the wall, but the morning would be better for shade seekers. Based on the approach trail, this is as secluded as it gets. Do everyone a favor and clear the brush off of the trail. It has really overgrown. We had a lot of wind during our visit, which helped when we were in the sun. The rock here is the typical quartz monzonite found at other Ferguson sites, although the large quartz crystals are missing. Because visitors are rare, the rock is gritty and exfoliates quite a bit. The routes here are all around 50 feet in length and range in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.12. All routes share a slung tree for an anchor. The belay ledge is not very comfortable, and a fall could be nasty, so build an anchor for the belayer and attach your gear so that you don't lose it down the approach gully.
Hike to the Goldenfingers Wall, past Arete Juliette and Garden of Gordon, and you will see a short cliff band to the southeast. A trail hugs the left side of this cliff band for a few hundred feet. The trail becomes a talus slope, and there is a spot where the brush has overgrown the trail. You will eventually reach a cove where the talus initiates (this is The Cove area). The Gallant Wall is visible behind a large pine tree to the east. Scramble around the pine tree and hike a steep dirt trail. This is an erosion nightmare and is severely overgrown. Plan on a 30-45 minute approach. A descent in the dark would be very bad, so bring a headlamp or flashlight.
Climbing Season For the Ferguson Canyon area.
Weather station 0.5 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Gallant Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Gallant Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Gallant Wall:
Featured Route For Gallant Wall
Presiding Nymph 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Utah
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Gallant Wall
After a long, arduous hike, I began to wonder if I had wasted my time and energy. Presiding Nymph did not disappoint. It climbs even better than it looks, and I'm pretty sure that I drooled when I first saw it. Some of the jams are funky, but they are so sweet! Then there are these stretchy stems at the crux that make your pants split! It gets narrow fast, and you start to squeeze a little, but a bomber wrist lock bails you out and deposits you on a sloping ledge. A short crack guards the ...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
From up here, the Margin for Air area in Big Cotto...
BETA PHOTO: The top section of Gallant Wall.