Galena Peak Rock Climbing
Galena Peak from the road up to Morton Peak, a few...
Galena Peak is a little hidden gem of a mountain back at the end of the valley behind the town of Forest Falls. While the waterfall for which the town is named draws a decent crowd most days, heading up the valley leads to great views and very few other people unless you're unlucky. Galena Peak itself is the high point along the Yucaipa Ridge and offers wonderful views of the surrounding mountains including San Gorgonio and San Jacinto.
The two main routes to the top are to climb the northwest couloir during the winter or spring or to climb up the loose headwall known as the Mill Creek jumpoff which is just a day hike. The peak proper is the east high point which is straight up from the headwall, while the NW couloir will dump you out just below the west peak, which is about 30 feet higher. The rock in the area is very crumbly and not good for climbing or scrambling. The main attraction will be the snow routes up any of the couloirs.
The peak is located on private property and the rangers will inform you that you can't go up it, but there are no visible postings prohibiting access. Climb at your own risk though.
Parking is at the Vivian Creek or Forest Falls trailheads and requires a $5 day or $30 annual Adventure Pass.
To get to the base of the peak, park at either trailhead and hike between 2.5 and 3 miles up the canyon along the wash.
Climbing Season For the San Bernardino Mountains area.
Weather station 2.1 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
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Featured Route For Galena Peak
AI1 PG13 California
: San Bernardino Mountains
: Galena Peak
Head straight up the obvious big gully and follow up through a few constrictions until it widens up significantly. From here it splits and you can take the easier left fork to the summit ridge or cut right to get a couple hundred extra feet of the steepest part of the route through a body width constriction. The angle here is on the order of 45°. This fork will take you to the summit ridge a short walk from the top. You may encounter short bits of ice so crampons and at least one axe are recomm...[more] Browse More Classics in California