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Galaxy of Tears 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Dustin Ulrich, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie 2016 June 17
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 119
Submitted By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jun 22, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Galaxy of Tear on Mt. Marcy, NY.

Description 

The route is one of the longest lines on Mt. Marcy’s northern walls with highlights that include an airy climb up an exposed open book on P2 and funky face climbing on P4. Expansive views overlook the Agharta Wall to the left. The world is a troubled place--terror attacks, mass shootings and violence of every form—Galaxy of Tears is a tribute to the fallen victims.

P1: 5.8 120’ G
Follow the left-most fingercrack to a handcrack and belay from cracks at the top near a 3 foot wide flake that overhangs the Agharta Wall.

P2: 5.9 150’ PG
Follow the obvious finger crack up an exposed arête and move left before the overhang. Continue up a slightly left rising dihedral to an open book with the crux at an exposed hand traverse. Climb to its top and belay from a good ledge.

P3: 5.8 170’ PG
Climb a right-facing flake that turns into a corner with sketchy gear. Climb past top of Kat Nap and drift right on low angle slab. Break through the trees to the base of the upper cliff band.

P4: 5.6 160’ G
Begin about 50’ left of a large left-facing corner. Climb obvious cracks/face climb on an extremely featured face – envision an enormous cheese-grater. Follow a short wall left to a chimney. Climb low angle slab to trees and belay.

Location 

Start: Begin at the left-hand corner on the steepest area of the Feline Wall. This buttress of the Feline Wall is separated from the low-angle area by a sheer forested rise. The Agharta Wall lies immediately around the corner. Some may find it easier to bushwhack to the Agharta Wall and backtrack up the glade to Galaxy of Tears.

Protection 

Rack up to 4".


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