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Galatine 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: D.Mabe
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 284
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Oct 13, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Galatine tackles the striking arete That forms the...

Description 

Galatine is an atypical and featured arete bypassing a thin tips crack, and also allegedly the name of Sir Gawain's sword.

Start from a good belay stance in the thin tips crack but work out onto the arete with techy sequences when the holds present themselves. A couple bolts protect the exposed arete climbing. Near the top of the arete, at the cut-out, rejoin the crack system on thoughtful climbing to the rim.

Location 

see picture topo. Galatine is identified by a distinct arete with bright yellow lichen on its left side and thin tips seam leading off the belay ledge.

Protection 

2 bolts, Light rack with selection of small nuts, micro cams up to .5C4.
Top anchor could consist of .75 and .4 C4s near the edge, backed up by tree or other creative gear.
Belay takes #2C4 and micro cam.


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