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Upper Devil's Playground
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Unsorted Routes:

Galactus 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Pamela Pack, Patrick Kingsbury, and Kris Schrijvers
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 751
Submitted By: Pamela Shanti Pack on Oct 6, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Climbing out the roof. Photo: Kris Schrijvers.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Galactus (the "devourer of worlds") is a beautiful 60' offwidth roof to squeeze. The pitch is accessed via a 50' 5.9 squeeze chimney or an easy scramble to the right of the approach chimney. Begin on an intimidating ramp above the chimney, and invert off a chicken wing to establish yourself in the roof. Sidewind 15-20' out the roof past the lip, and continue with a graceless grovel to a 2-bolt anchor.

Although the climbing on this route is deceptively easier than your average invert offwidth, be wary of your sparse gear placements as a miscalculation will cause a horrendous/dangerous fall into the chimney below. This is a fantastic TR for anyone wanting to climb a partially inverted style roof.

Location 

Approach the route as if you were approaching Muscle and Fitness. The route begins on a large, flat ledge behind the Muscle and Fitness top-out. Climb the obvious chimney directly below the route to access it or scramble up to the base from the right of the chimney.

Protection 

One #3 Bigbro and 1-2 6" cams. A 9" cam is helpful but not required. Build a solid anchor high in the crack before inverting off the ramp as a fall at the start would be a painful plummet into a chimney.


Photos of Galactus Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ray crushing Galactus.
Ray crushing Galactus.
Rock Climbing Photo: A look at Galactus and most of the upper corridor....
A look at Galactus and most of the upper corridor....

Comments on Galactus Add Comment
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By Ray Lovestead
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 11, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This climb is super bad ass and should not be missed. Don't think twice about top roping it. Just hike up to the top to drop a line. Very safe TR and lots of fun!

Horizontal chicken winging. What could be better?

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