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Gait of Power 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Scott Stuemke and Dick Armstrong, 1977
Page Views: 976
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 8, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Climb a boulder problem start past a bolt to reach a right-slanting crack and then left-slanting flakes that join with the upper portion of Squat Rockets.

  • The Gait of Power is a technique for running in total darkness as taught by Don Juan in the books of Carlos Castaneda.


The face to crack between We Dive At Dawn and The Reverend.


One bolt (3/8"), gear to 3 inches

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 23, 2017
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Dec 15, 2003

Short! Too short!! Could it be shorter??? But a little bit fun noe the less.
By Brian Reynolds
Dec 16, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This climb is short but fun. I've had a good time hopping on it unroped, with just a boulder pad or two at the base for protection. You clear the crux by the time you're ten feet up, and then you can jump off. No way this deserves zero stars.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Dec 16, 2003

Give it a million stars if you like!!! Whatever the case, climb it or not, like it or not, do as you damned well please! We had fun on it and thought it to be worthwhile, but too short. Call God and see if he/she can make it longer. Then I will add a few stars from heaven.
By Brian Reynolds
Dec 17, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Well, Locker, I guess we disagree. It's not personal. I swear.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Dec 20, 2003

Hey, like I said, a bit of fun and worth the shot. Certainly not a TOTAL BOMB as suggested by CM. I give it no stars and will never do it again though. All just opinions of course. None more important than the other. All in fun. I take nothing personal on this or any other site Brian. Thanks however and climb on!
By Bo Johnston
Feb 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I really like this quick route! Someone gave me a tip to get my feet up on the first diagonal horizontal however I could and the rest would be cake and it was. Fun
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 9, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

It wouldn't take an act of god to make this route longer. A bolt or two more continuing straight up the face would do the trick. I set up a TR so I could continue straight up for an equal length of additional and equally challenging face climbing.

Maybe I am a wus, but the bolt on this climb seems a little high to me. If uncomfortable about hurting your feet, bring a crash pad or stick clip. I was lucky to rap from somebody's rope above but you can walk off right. A bit tricky so look at it before you head up.
By Randy
Oct 9, 2006

Maybe not a bomb, but certainly no more than one star and barely worth doing.
By philistein
From: seattle
Mar 26, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I think it's fun as a V-1 boulder problem that has a flat landing and tops out to an easy walk off. That bolt is pretty haggard anyway! I do think an extension (sorry, I meant linkup:) up the second face could be fun though.
By Rodger Raubach
Feb 24, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Did this route as a farewell climb after a week in the then-Monument. With sore fingertips, it seemed a bit harder then than 10a, but that was just sore tips talking. Not a bomb, but close...barely one star.

With a bouldering pad would make a decent highball problem.
By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Nov 11, 2012

The bolt is almost falling out.

Definately an intriging route, albeit short.
By Rodger Raubach
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

There may have been a bolt replacement, since there is one with what appears to be a new hanger next to an older chopped bolt stub.
Rock Climbing Photo: Use the magnification feature to check it out...
Use the magnification feature to check it out...
By alex carey
May 23, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

bolt looked good, 5/21/2017. For the life of me my wife and I just couldnt see this going at 10a. I'm tall and she is short but we must have missed something. maybe its the FA from 77 or maybe its the old adage that the first 15 feet don't count, then again this route is only 15 feet long.

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