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Gainsborough Boulders

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L to R R to L Alpha
Gainsborough Arete 
Overhang, The 
Redwood Corner 
Shoot The J 
Tarantula Traverse 

Gainsborough Boulders Rock Climbing 

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Location: 34.1954, -118.8859 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: RafaelRAncheta on Jun 21, 2013  with updates from Joey Catama
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Short but overhanging sandstone with a couple fun problems, elimination problems make for good times. The wall itself is about 20 yards long in the shade almost all day. Not a destination area but an excellent place to train for locals mostly due to proximity and not worrying about every hold breaking off *cough* Mystery Science Theater. At first I hesitated at putting this up however there have been no access issues for the time I have been climbing here. As the rest of the areas in the local vicinity have been shut down I thought that this would be a convenient alternative. Please leave no trace. Also feel free to chip in on the grading, I know its off.

Also don't climb here after rain, the holds will break.

UPDATED directions thanks to Joseph:
The address for the base of the hill is 285-461 W Gainsborough Rd. If you have trouble look up Tarantula Hill. Park by the oak tree.

Getting There 

Exit the 101 and head north on Moorpark Road then turn right on Gainsborough Road. You will see the boulders sticking out of a hill on the left, nicknamed Tarantula Hill by locals.

Climbing Season

For the Santa Monica Mountains area.

Weather station 2.8 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Gainsborough Boulders

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Gainsborough Boulders:
Redwood Corner   V-easy 3     Boulder   
Hook   V1 5     Boulder   
Tarantula Traverse   V4+ 6B+     Boulder, 30'   
The Overhang   V5 6C     Boulder   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Gainsborough Boulders

Featured Route For Gainsborough Boulders
Rock Climbing Photo:

Tarantula Traverse V4+ 6B+  California : Los Angeles Basin : ... : Gainsborough Boulders
Crux is the center section after the overhang, pretty easy over to the right but gets pumpy toward the middle....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Gainsborough Boulders Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Right of the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Right of the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Some problems Grey-Rekha's TraverseRed-Gainsboroug...
BETA PHOTO: Some problems Grey-Rekha's TraverseRed-Gainsboroug...
Rock Climbing Photo: By the overhang
By the overhang
Rock Climbing Photo: Shade at the boulders
Shade at the boulders
Rock Climbing Photo: gainsborough boulder
gainsborough boulder
Rock Climbing Photo: A bit of the landing
A bit of the landing
Rock Climbing Photo: Left of the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Left of the crux.

Comments on Gainsborough Boulders Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joey Catama
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
Sep 22, 2015
The address for the base of the hill is 285-461 W Gainsborough Rd. If you have trouble look up Tarantula Hill. The smaller boulder has pretty good solid rock but is only about 8ishfeet high. The traverse from right to left is very good at about v5-. The right side of the boulder has a really good v1 or 2. I think you start on the big thing sticking out then go straight up on some cool sloper jugs. (note: you don't need pads for this boulder, the landing is very flat with dirt.) The lower bigger 12ft overhung boulder has some potential for the aretes but the landing is pretty bad. There are bolts at the top of the boulder if you want to top rope them. Good place for a beginner to moderate climber for a afternoon. And the hill also boasts very nice sunsets when you stand at the top of the hill.
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 30, 2016
Glad to see this boulder get some attention. As an undergrad at CLU I logged many many hours keeping it clean of sagebrush. I'm not much for bouldering, but the main traverse is the best problem I have ever done. Will test everything you've got, especially endurance!

One thing I should mention is that, in 3 years of climbing regularly here, I watched the crimps go through a LOT of change. Some routes got noticeably easier, while others became harder. Don't touch this thing for a couple days after it rains!

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