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Gainfully Unemployed 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Benjit Hull, Doug Reimer
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 825
Submitted By: Eric Hirst on Aug 4, 2014

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David Tower on his way to the (probable) 4th ascen...

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Description 

From the starting holds of Cold Beer and Domestic Bliss, hand traverse R on an evil rail until you can kick a leg up and mantle. Then it gets harder.

12b to the first anchors. Andrew Philbin redpointed a short 12d(???) extension (actually, Benjit's original full project) in the spring of 2015.

Protection 

About 12 bolts. Stick clipping the second one is the customary way to start.


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By Eric Hirst
Aug 4, 2014

This is part of a harder project that Benjit bolted a while back. Doug recently added anchors at the top of the 5.12 climbing for an instant classic. The rating fluctuates with ego.
By Drewsky
May 11, 2015

The extension adds a nice little not-granite-but-feels-like-it slab boulder problem but not a huge amount in the way of difficulty. The most technical moves seem to be on and above the rail down low and in reaching the first anchor, while the boulder problem is thrutchy and possibly favors shorter climbers. The lower .12b pitch is one of the best at Newhalem: intricate and technical with excellent rock. Feels like Index.

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