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Backstage Wall
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Best Boy S 
Gaffer S 

Gaffer 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Matt Juth / Paul Findley / Bernard Gillett 12/03
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 24
Submitted By: Matt Juth on Dec 24, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Backstage from the bottom of Gaffer.

Description 

This is the right bolted route in the backstage. Climb up onto ramp and pull right on to a bizarre slab. Follow this up to bolt four, reach past the crux (tall is good), and trend left to the roof. Avoid the flakes to the right of bolt 5 and 6 as they are hollow. Run it out (for now) across easy slab (20 feet)and clip the final bolt. Pull out the roof through a fun finger crack (you can place a piece from a good stance) to the anchors.

Other than the currently runout section, the majority of the moves are in the 9/9+ range. It's a little dirty right now from a large flake I removed. As it cleans up it will be worthy of 2 stars.

Protection 

7 Bolts currently (one more will be installed between 6 and 7).

A medium TCU (Yellow) can be placed just before the top.


Comments on Gaffer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Dec 24, 2003

Be carefull making the last clip untill I get the new bolt in.
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 11, 2004

It cleaned up nicely from the last snow. The new bolt isn't there, but would be nice.

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