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a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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G-String Giants 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,157
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Aug 14, 2011

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This route is the link up of the start of G-String and the finish of Land of the Giants. It possesses quite a bit of climbing with several 5.7 cruxes after the initial 5.8 traverse crux. The route finding is a little bit tricky.

Walk up the ramp to the base of the flaring off-width. Climb up and right to a horizontal crack below an overhang. Traverse right about 5 feet to gain good hands. At this point the book says to climb up the slab before traversing 10-12 feet right at a large horizontal. (I, however, continued to traverse right before climbing the right facing Gelsa corner for 5 feet.) No matter which route you take, you will find yourself at the base of a crack with several horizontal holds to its right. Continue to climb this crack/weakness up. You will eventually arrive at a small left facing corner 5-7 feet tall. Climb this and move around up and right to the bolted Fat City Direct belay/rap-station. If you are using a 70m rope you can be lowered from here.


The route starts 15 feet left of Gelsa on a rightward arching off-width at the top of a small ramp that rises from right to left.


Standard Gunks rack with some micro cams.

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