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G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dimitri Barton and Scott Stowe, 1988
Page Views: 1,258
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Oct 5, 2009

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


(Title edited to reflect the First Ascensionists Comments. I kept Book'em Dano since that is what the route is shown as in the Supertopo guidebook)

Trend right past a thin crack on huge knobs from the belay for Nurdle. This pitch can also be linked with Knob Job or G-Man for a full 60m experience.

Clip a bolt and pull a few hard moves to get established on a huge knob. Clip the final bolt, mantel the large flat knob and hope you are at least 5' 10" or taller.

Those that can't reach the next hold will have to jump. The grade here is proportional to your height and ability to dyno without handholds.

Once the distant hold is reached make some powerful pulls on knobs and incuts to gain the top.


This pitch starts on the ledge halfway up the wall above the main approach trail. Start Via Nurdle, Knob Job or G-Man


Two bolts and .5" cam (green alien)

There is a rap station at the top and you can descend with two 60 meter ropes.

Comments on G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano) Add Comment
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By Dimitri Barton
Aug 16, 2010

This is not Book 'em Dano.
Book 'em Dano goes out the diagonal line of knobs out to the right and them up to the top of the cliff, 5.9.
This climb is an extension of G-Man and is meant to be climbed in one pitch, 55-60 meters.

FA Dimitri Barton Scott Stowe 1988
By jimi thornburg
Apr 23, 2014

I'm 6' and I had to jump about 6 inches to get the horizontal. I think you'd have to be really tall (6'5"?) to avoid the jump, which is pretty scary onsight!
By Vlad S
Oct 20, 2014

I've TR this before doing the jump without a problem. Tried leading it recently and found myself standing on the huge knob with the bolt at my ankle level. I'm 5'8" and needed only another 3 inches to reach the horizontal. With multiple large knobs to land on in case of flailure I found myself lacking in the sac department and bailed. This climb would have been a lot more enjoyable if that bolt was moved a few feet higher or better yet with another bolt just below the horizontal. It's basically a no-hands stance there, so not placing a bolt on the FA was a contrivance.
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Oct 20, 2014

Yeah the FA should have done one more mantle before pulling out the drill. Clipping a bolt to do a 5.6 mantle and then facing an ankle busting runout for the 5.10+ all-points-off dyno is just strange.
By Dimitri Barton
Nov 8, 2014

Yes Jim, a bit scary onsight....the FA was done onsight except for the fact the first section is shared with Book'Em Dano that I had done years before.

Vlad, it's not contrived, it's called drilling from a stance, that's how it was done back in those days.

BryanG..what's strange is you actually think you know how the FA was done...I did the mantle and then drilled the bolt from that stance. The reason the bolt is somewhat low is the fact you can't drill over-head on a steep climb like that. That bolt was drilled sidearm style, it's the only way on a close to vertical wall.
I don't know how much hand drilling Vlad or Bryan have done, but it's very difficult to drill a bolt on a steep stance like that, it's not a slab climb.
NO hands on a no hands stance doesn't mean one can drill over-head.

(Title edited to reflect the First Ascensionist Comments. I kept Book'em Dano since that is what the route is shown as in the Supertopo guidebook)

Again, his is not Book 'em Dano, that climb goes out to the right.
The fist time I met Greg Barnes in 2002 he was working on one of those very lame supertopo guidebooks, I saw Pat and Jack on his computer screen and noticed he had the names wrong....I told him I had done the FA and it went out on the line of knobs to the right....he looked at me and said..."no climb goes out there..", so I repeated myself and said he had it wrong and I had indeed done the FA....he just ignored me and said, no, no climb goes out there and Book em Dano goes straight up.....supertopo is a pathetic joke and of course they went on to publish the error.
By Vlad S
Feb 10, 2015

Hi Dmitri, sorry if I offended you with my comment. I don't know much about drilling from stance as I haven't done any and appreciate your insight as well as all the routes you've FAed in the valley. What do you think about moving the bolt higher to make it safer to lead? I respect the ground-up ethic, but as you know the protection doesn't always end up perfect on the routes established GU. However, that can be corrected in the future...
By Vlad S
Nov 6, 2015

Dmitri, no problem if you prefer to keep it this way. This route is an excellent top rope too!

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