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l. Sleepy Hollow
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Devil Made Me Do It, The T,TR 
Dick's Prick T 
Emilietta T 
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Fancy Free T 
Footloose T 
Four-Foot Face T 
Future Shock T,TR 
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Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 

Future Shock 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Darrow Kirkpatrick and Frank Minunni, 1986
Page Views: 501
Submitted By: Simon Thompson on Sep 22, 2015  with updates from frank minunni

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BETA PHOTO: Beautiful face to the open book. Traverse and uppe...

Description 

Start on the beautiful sequencey face crimps about 30' left of Art's Route's corner. Climb the face to the rusty bolt and pull several crux moves to, into, and out of the shallow open book. The guidebook describes going left to a crack from here but due to lichen and a nearby tree it is now much more pleasant to continue climbing straight up from the crux to the top of the pinnacle.

Location 

About 30' left of Art's Route. Looks for face crimps and sharp boulders below them.

You can access the route for TRing by soloing up the short 5.3 in the gully up the hill to the left and scrambling around onto the top of Tom's Thumb OR (recommended) you can lead Art's Route. There is a good spot above Future Shock for a gear anchor. Rappel Art's Route' to get down.

Protection 

A green alien backs up the ugly bolt, and a questionable blue ball nut above that. Not sure how the upper part protects.


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By Nicolas Falacci
From: Pasadena, CA
Oct 8, 2015

I worked out the direct finish on TR and it's close to 5.12c/d. However, I didn't see much in the way of gear to protect the direct finish.
By frank minunni
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 12, 2015

Hi Nick

That bolt is still there? I put that bolt in when Darrow and I put in the first ascent. It was shitty then, it must be horrible now!

Kevin Bein and I did the FA on the direct on TR. We didn't have it as that hard, but who knows. It was definitely harder than the original line which got pushed that way because there was gear to be had.
By lostlazy
From: Hoboken, NJ
Nov 1, 2016

As of 10/29/16 a new shiny bolt has replaced (I guess ?) the old bolt. Did this on TR, and can't possibly see a solution on lead any less than R/X, bolt or not. It's for a person far bolder than I...

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