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Future Shock 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Tom Davis, David Rubine, 9/88
Page Views: 1,062
Submitted By: Ian Walters on Dec 30, 2008

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Valerie Hooper sending Future Shock. Photo - Kyle...

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This is the bolted face to the right of Rocket In My Pocket on the North face of the Monolith. Although it's pretty short, it's sustained and balancey right up the the crux. Good body positioning and a love of crimping will get you to the business: an off-balance, mean little punch to a good edge. Have fun trying not to pump out while pulling onto the slab above.


Although it is visible from the trail, the route may not be very apparent due to the small size of the holds. The quarter inch belay bolt is helpful, as there is a sizable hole just to the right of the climb which, unless you're into broken ankles and bats, is very avoidable.


5 Bolts

Photos of Future Shock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: David Rubine on the first ascent of Future Shock.
David Rubine on the first ascent of Future Shock.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob Hampton on Future Shock, 1993
Rob Hampton on Future Shock, 1993

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By Kyle Queener
From: Bishop, California
Nov 30, 2014

This could be my favorite 5.12 in the park. Great technical movement, great history. Although I wish one bolt (the last one) was in a different location it is still a classic. You have to climb the crux on what could be for some, if you're like me, an uncomfortable distance from the last bolt. It's manageable and I don't think it's dangerous but I'm never too psyched to be out there. Most climbers probably are not as concerned about this as I am, but for the few who are, we should probably start some sort of pansy sport climber club where we get together and only climb routes with bolts 6 feet apart or less, and mainly indoors where it is safe.

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