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Futile Laments
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.4 from 17
votes
Routes in Wind Tower - S Face
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Balls of Fire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Beluga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Blackjack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Diffraction T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disguise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Futile Laments T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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King's X T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lion, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
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Lower Triagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Metamorphosis, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Muscle Up, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b X |
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Punter, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Rainbow Wall T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Scotch and Soda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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SE Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Sheer Terror T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X |
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Uplift, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Ur-Ine Trouble T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Yellow Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m) |
| FA: | Kyle Copeland, Cam John, 1980s? |
| Page Views: | 1,116 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 6, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
For one of the Eldo "Obscure Tour" routes, this is really quite good. The crux of this climb is the steepest 5.9 I can recall ever climbing in Eldo. It is mostly well protected and is runout only in the easier sections (5.7?) and even then, not horribly so. The opening of King's X is the worst it gets.
Climb up King's X for ~40 feet, to reach the bottom of the overhanging flakes, just before King's X goes up and right into the A-shaped corner. Rather than go up and right, step left, set some good gear, and continue up and left into a large, acute, left-facing dihedral. Go up this a few moves (5.7, S) with a small RP on the right for pro, them a pin back and right (near the arete behind you) to reach a good handcrack though the roof. Pull the roof on great jams and jugs, stemming left to the face or right to the arete as needed. This is the steepest 5.9 around!
Continue up and left to the main arete of the Wind Tower and climb to the ledge contiguous with the top of Boulder Direct, finishing somewhere near the base of West Overhang. The climbing here is a little runout as well, but mostly easy (5.4?)
Climb up King's X for ~40 feet, to reach the bottom of the overhanging flakes, just before King's X goes up and right into the A-shaped corner. Rather than go up and right, step left, set some good gear, and continue up and left into a large, acute, left-facing dihedral. Go up this a few moves (5.7, S) with a small RP on the right for pro, them a pin back and right (near the arete behind you) to reach a good handcrack though the roof. Pull the roof on great jams and jugs, stemming left to the face or right to the arete as needed. This is the steepest 5.9 around!
Continue up and left to the main arete of the Wind Tower and climb to the ledge contiguous with the top of Boulder Direct, finishing somewhere near the base of West Overhang. The climbing here is a little runout as well, but mostly easy (5.4?)
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