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Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Farewell to Poodles T 
Astropoodle T 
Dangerous Poodle, The T 
Easy As Pi T 
For Whom the Poodle Tolls T 
Fusion Without Integrity T 
Head Over Heals T 
Mind Blender T 
Mind Meld TR 
Mind Over Matter T 
Mind over Splatter T 
Old Man and the Poodle, The T 
Ravens Do Nasty Things To My Bottom T 
Route 182 T 
Space Walk T 
Suspect Rock T 
Unknown T 

Fusion Without Integrity 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pat Brennan, Todd Gordon, Dave Vaught, Frank Bentwood & Quinn McCleod, January 1981
Page Views: 516
Submitted By: Woody Stark on May 5, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Fusion Without Integrity

Description 

This route is located on the far right portion of Hemingway Buttress just to the right of Puzzlin' Evidence; it's the third route looking left to right. Climb past two bolts into a crack that leads directly to the top. It's somewhat sustained and presents a few interesting choices at crux points. If the leader chooses to climb up the large flake as I did, don't pull out on it. All three of our party though this was a very enjoyable route deserving of some stars it hadn't previously been given.

Protection 

Standard rack, two bolts (3/8", 1/2")


Photos of Fusion Without Integrity Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Fusion Without Integrity". Photo by Bli...
BETA PHOTO: "Fusion Without Integrity". Photo by Bli...

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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 8, 2007

+2 stars for the moves, -2 stars for the rock = 0 stars total.

The flake at the crux will break off eventually - I could easily have pulled it off today. The moves are interesting, but it'll suck for the belayer (and possibly climber) when that thing blows. You need to use it as a handhold and a foothold at the crux.

Gear: 2 bolts, some small nuts, a small TCU (blue?) and one set of camalots (#0.5-#2) for the climb and anchor.

We couldn't find a straight forward descent directly back to the base through the gully to the climbers left, and instead headed up and right to the base of the Fillipino Wall and then traversed back to the base of the climb.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 9, 2007

When we did the first ascent (In 1981), the hold was "really loose" back then;...I reefed on it to try to break it off, but couldn't.....26 years later, most people who climb the route comment on the "loose" hold.......just how loose is it?......how many people have pulled on this hold and NOT pulled it off? I guess when it FINALLY does come off ( Year 2026?).....THEN the saga of the loose hold will be over;......(I find the loose hold just a curiousity......a quirky addition to an interesting climb.....)Fusion without Integrity is the result of the joining of a man and a prostitute(Thus the name...)
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Apr 9, 2007

LOL on the name
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 10, 2007

Nice info Todd, thanks for the story of the name! Hopefully the hold will last another 20 years :)

+1 stars for the integrity of the "really loose hold"
By Randy
Oct 23, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Did this route again and the 2nd bolt is not really located in the natural (best) line of the route (put in off a ledge down and left rather than off the flake -- kinda wacky). The Flake is fine as long as you pull down, not out. OK route, rock not that bad actually.

The Descent is down and left off the back. Tunnel under the boulders as described in Josh West.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Oct 23, 2011

If the bolt is in the wrong spot, and Randy or anyone else would like to put it in a better spot....please do;...with my permission and thanks......if it would make it a better, more enjoyable climb;....so be it... thanks. Todd Gordon
By Randy
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Looks like the bolts were replaced -- in the original location -- not too long ago (Thanks to KP or ? did this).

So, moving it seems like too much work for a latte drinking, plastic pulling, sport climbing, convenience anchor, washed-up, never-was-been, like me.
By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A decent climb, as mentioned, that's worth doing once.

Randy, I replaced the bolts about 12 years ago or so in the original holes - the lower one is 3/8" and the upper one is 1/2".