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YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Kelbel & Vance Cole
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 543
Submitted By: John Kelbel on Oct 31, 2012

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Fuse is an excellent first pitch to "Black Powder" or an exciting start for "C route". The cannon fire from town during the first ascent was quite appropriate as we lit the fuse and then fired up Black Powder.

1. Face climb up the wide 4 inch crack. Pull over the small overhang on the right side with ample flat edges above. ** Must see protection comment below ** Move up C ramp for about 25 feet and belay next to the main wall at the start of the thin crack "Black Powder". For the belay anchor there is a short 3” wide crack in the ramp and a little higher and right is a horizontal pocket for a small finger size cam. Also down low to the left of the 3" crack in the bush is another short crack.
2. Finish with "Black Powder" or "C route".


Head up the trail aiming for the "Sign Wall". When you reach the narrow gully that leads to "Hard up Direct" step to the right a few feet to a small flat platform at the out side corner of "C Ramp". Do not head up the gully scramble.


A Mandatory cam the size of an orange #3 Metolius TCU is needed immediately after pulling over the roof, the TCU placement is excellent however a 4 cam device might not fit. This pocket is the only gear after pulling the roof and may contain or be hidden by some small vegetation.
A tiny double zero and zero TCU was used straight up in the roof crack. A large #4 Camalot is needed near the top of the wide crack. Also a large #5 Camalot works nice near the bottom of the wide crack however smaller gear placements is available. The standard rack will fill in the rest of the needed gear.

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By Zach Alles
From: Snowmass, CO
Apr 18, 2015

Climbed this guy yesterday. I managed to sink a purple "0" mastercam in diagonal crack just over the roof. Right below this I put in a few nuts and had to adjust as much of the rock was of pretty shoddy quality which I discovered as I first tried pulling the roof. My belayer actually kicked out a big block roughly microwave size a good seven inches from its place.. the roof pull was fun though and the mastercam was solid.
By Zach Alles
From: Snowmass, CO
Sep 14, 2015

My partner and I climbed this again today. There rock seemed significantly shittier under the roof. I knocked off a small microwave sized block. then decided to not pull due to not wanting knock the loose looking holds onto my partner. I would knock recommend climbing this one. I ended up cutting left around the corner maybe 7-8 ft onto C-ramp, and pulled a mini-roof through some medium sized positive holds (5.8ish?), after a bit of gardening. The rock and gear here were solid, once you got through the shrubbery.

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